Nicaragua’s history and culture have been influenced and shaped by life in a volcanic region. The rich soil created by volcanic activity has proven an ideal growing medium for some of the country’s most lucrative crops. The three largest cities in the country were built in the shadows of volcanoes, which were once believed to be nature’s protectors.
Nicaragua has nine active volcanoes, numerous dormant ones and many volcanic structures. The magnificent views from the summits of these volcanoes, as well as the presence of hot springs, boiling mud holes and a variety of plant life, create numerous
rewarding excursions. Varying in degrees of accessibility and level of climbing difficulty, Volcanic Nicaragua offers visitors
everything from leisurely outings to challenging hikes.
Following Nicaragua’s most prominent volcano range, Maribios, we work our way south from Honduras until we reach the volcanoes of Ometepe Island. Passing Chinandega south to Managua, the range consists of many younger volcanoes superimposed over old. Of the many peaks, the most prominent are San Cristóbal, Telica, Cerro Negro and, on the shores of Lake Managua, the famous Momotombo. Highways from Chinandega to León, across to Estelí, or down to Managua offer ample vantage points for views of and access to this range.
The Volcán Cosigüina Nature Reserve is situated in the northwestern corner of Nicaragua and stands sentinel over the Fonseca gulf. Climbing paths on Cosigüina are not well marked but reward your efforts with a fantastic view of the pacific coast. Worth the extra effort if time permits, the last 20 km heading along the coast from Chinandega is unpaved, a 4×4 vehicle is recommended. From the summit, on a clear day, you can see El Salvador and Honduras.
At 1745 meters, Volcán San Cristóbal, also known as El Viejo, is the tallest volcano in Nicaragua and is relatively young compared to its neighbors. William Dampier, a famous pirate and explorer, reported a huge eruption in 1685 and explosive activity was recorded throughout the 16th and 17th centuries. The last eruption, in 1987, was relatively small and today it emits gas and sometimes showers ash on the nearby city of Chinandega.
There are several routes to the top of San Cristóbal, but perhaps the best option is to take the road to neighboring Casita. About 20 minutes north of León, on the highway between Chinandega and León take the 4×4 road from Posoltega to Finca Bella Vista, a coffee processing plant. At the Finca, with wonderful views of the Pacific, you can ask for directions to the trail leading to the top of Casita. This trail will take you past fumarolic activity. Once you reach the top of Casita, there is another 600-meter climb up the slopes of San Cristóbal. The León tourist office can provide additional information at 311-3682.
Volcán Telica (1061 meters) rises over the town of Telica and is a few kilometers south of San Cristóbal. A 700-meter wide double crater, which truncates the steep slopes of Telica, is the source of recent eruptions. The vigor of Telica’s fumarolic activity can be witnessed close-up at the boiling mud holes of Hervideros de San Jacinto, southeast of Telica. This area is frequented by tourists and consequently attracts many local children who offer their services as guides. Remember to use caution on this trip-the ground is fragile in places and potentially dangerous. Take the road to San Isidro and Estelí, which passes between Cerro Negro and Telica, to the town of San Jacinto. The mud holes are easily located once you reach town. San Jacinto can also be reached by taking the bus that runs between León and San Isidro, departing every 30 minutes in each direction until nightfall.
In 1850, an eruption in the Las Pilas complex created Cerro Negro (725 meters), which is the youngest volcano in the Western Hemisphere. Cerro Negro is the most violently active volcano in Nicaragua and has put on spectacular pyrotechnic displays at regular intervals over the years, growing 400 meters since its birth. Prior to its last eruption in 1999, it experienced major eruptions nearly every twenty years. Stark, black gravel slopes, solidified lava flows and massive black sand dunes give Cerro Negro the appearance of a lunar landscape. This volcano is where the Frenchman Eric Barone set the world mountain biking speed record in May 2002, clocking 172 kph. And he’s not only fast - he’s lucky. Although he crashed at the bottom of the crater, destroying his bike, he walked away with only a few bruises.
To reach the less strenuous route up Cerro Negro, take the León-Managua highway, stopping at La Paz Centro, and then taking the road to La Ceiba. Ask for directions to the short 4×4 road that takes you close to the summit. From here, it is a relatively easy climb up the gravel slopes.
The Momotombo volcano (1258 meters) is one of Nicaragua’s most famous landmarks and is a frequent reference in Rubén Darío’s poetry. It towers over Lake Nicaragua and its younger brother, Momotombito (389 meters) sits just offshore in the lake. Views of both volcanoes can be enjoyed from lookouts along the new highway to León. Momotombo is still active and has, through the geothermal energy station at its base, been used as an energy source for the past 30 years. Momotombo began growing about 4,500 years ago and, in 1625, destroyed the former capital of León.
To reach Momotombo, turn at La Paz Centro from the León-Managua highway, taking the road toward the geothermal plant. Near the plant, there are numerous trails that lead up the slopes. Ask for directions or find a local guide at the small nearby village of Puerto Momotombo. Be prepared for a strenuous three-four hour climb. Tour companies out of Managua and León organize day tours and overnight camping trips that include the climb and a visit to the idyllic clear hot springs at a nearby finca.
Volcano Masaya (600 meters), just south of Managua, is Nicaragua’s first national park and one of the most easily accessed volcanoes in Nicaragua. It has been rumoured that indigenous groups of long ago threw virgins into the crater to appease the gods. In 4,550 BC, Masaya experienced one of the largest volcanic eruptions in history. It is now one of the most strongly degassing volcanoes in the world, with sustained output of thousands of tons of sulfuric gas per day. It has three exposed craters and a lagoon at its base. The visitors center offers interesting displays and public bathrooms.
The Apoyo volcano is an extinct crater dating back 23,000 years. Today, the crater holds a marvelous dark blue lagoon, 7 km wide, sitting a few hundred meters below the crater lip. It is Nicaragua’s largest crater lake and reaches depths of up to two hundred meters. The views across Laguna de Apoyo toward Granada and Lake Nicaragua make it a popular destination and a visitor can enjoy this scenery from one of the many restaurants situated on the crater lip. Half an hour from Granada, drive northwest to Masaya and at Masaya turn south, then turn left in to the small town of Catarina. Apoyo is reached from here by driving straight through the small town till you reach the mirador (look out). There are also frequent buses, which make this an easy half-day excursion. Visitors can drive down into the crater and swim in the 85° F water. The access road is off the highway between Granada and Masaya.
Mombacho (1345 meters) stands sentinel over Granada. This volcanic reserve has exceptional walking trails, a biological station, and is home to a tremendous cloud forest. The last reported volcanic activity was in 1570, when a debris avalanche destroyed a village on the south side of the volcano. An eruption thousands of years before this created nearly 360 islands (Las Isletas) near Granada in Lake Nicaragua. These tiny islands make popular boating destinations for tourists and locals. The views from the top of Mombacho are magnificent and you can find fumarolic vents just off the paths where you will see steam and gases, and maybe monkeys, rising through the thick vegetation.
Volcanoes Concepción (1610 meters) and Maderas (1394 meters) form the beautiful island of Ometepe with a thin isthmus joining the two volcanic landmasses. Concepción’s barren summit is evidence of its active state but it still retains a perfectly conical shape and is considered the best example of the formation in the Americas. Although it has frequently produced debris flows in the past, its most recent activity has been limited to the occasional ash shower. The climb up Maderas rewards the hiker with a wonderful, thick cloud forest that is home to numerous species of wildlife, including howler monkeys. At the summit, you can enjoy a swim in the serene and private lagoon contained within the crater. Tour operators in Managua and on the arrival dock at Moyogalpa can help you if you prefer not to go solo.
Moyogalpa on Ometepe can be reached from San Jorge dock, just outside Rivas on the mainland, where hour-long boat rides depart regularly. The climb on Concepción often begins from Altagracia, where you will be able to find local guides. From here, you can walk or drive to the small town of La Sabana, at which point you will need to ask directions for the trail up the volcano. This hike takes nine to ten hours and requires an excellent level of fitness.
In order to climb Maderas, you need to depart from Finca Magdelana. From Altagracia, you can drive or take a bus to Balgüe, from which you walk 20 minutes to reach the Finca. You can spend the night here and local guides are available. This climb is also quite strenuous and is an exceptionally muddy seven-eight hour trip.
Because many of these volcanoes are in remote destinations, please use reasonable travel safety precautions. You should check with local tourist offices for current volcanic activity, road conditions and to re-confirm directions before you depart. Allow plenty of time for your hike, carry water, and use sunscreen. On longer trips, be sure to let someone know your estimated time of return.
