by María Guzman
As the crow flies, Catarina is a quick, easy and direct shot from Granada. Problem is, most humans lack wings. Ergo, the mode of transportation – car or bus – is a bit more circuitous than by air. Not to worry. Getting to Catarina is half – well, maybe a quarter – of the adventure.
Catarina awaits the visitor like the younger sister of a sexy, beautiful woman. Not having the glitter or radiance of some of Nicaragua’s more famous attractions, Catarina nevertheless possesses unique and enjoyable charms if you take the time to delve into its offerings.Departing from your point of origin in Granada or Managua, the first delight is the one-hour bus ride or leisurely drive. First, you notice the ever-changing drop in temperature and humidity with the ascent from the lowland urban area toward the cool, verdant highlands of Carazo. The Pueblos Blancos – a second little treasure – patiently wait. South of Managua and west of Granada, the Pueblos Blancos (White Towns in English) derive their moniker from the sun-bleached color of the various Catholic churches of the dozen or so villages scattered in the hills of Meseta de los Pueblos.
Catarina is just one of the quaint, tranquil towns located on the plateau about 500 meters above sea level. To the northwest is the Sierra de Managua. Off to the west and beyond, you encounter a steep descent to the Pacific Ocean. Points north would take you to the steaming Masaya Volcano. The majestic view to the east of Catarina is worth the trip to this “diamond in the rough” featuring Laguna de Apoyo and, to the southeast, the Mombacho Volcano.
Catarina and the surrounding area make for a rewarding day trip. If you have a little more time – and a little more money – a calming, therapeutic couple of days or nights are available in the modest, clean hotels in Catarina with its unique ambiance.
Catarina’s attractions range from the obvious – the salubrious breezes of the spectacular Mirador or Lookout – to the mundane – tasty food, artisans’ booths, furniture workshops, and a colorful kaleidoscope of “viveros” or nurseries sporting flowers and plants for visual delight if not for purchase. A nighttime disco and beer provide an option to the cornucopia of nature.
Laguna de Apoyo is in the Nicaragua Pacific coastal region, in the middle of the long volcanic chain which spans Nicaragua from north to south. It is a wide and extended crater in the form of an inverted cone. In the center sits one of Nicaragua’s most beautiful – and largest – lagoons. A leafy forest covers the slopes of the crater, forming a canopy.
The crater of Laguna de Apoyo dates back about 23,000 years when a violent volcanic eruption left a hole about six kilometers in diameter and 200 meters deep. With more time, rain and underground springs made a lake out of the crater. Flora and fauna covered the slopes. The crater is considered by many to be a dormant volcano. Some of the hot springs in its interior continue to rumble periodically with volcanic activity.
You can make the trip to this wonder of nature by yourself or check with any one of the many tour operators in Masaya, Managua or Granada. Cristian Quintanilla, of JB Fun Tours in the Palacio de la Cultura in Granada, is like a human guidebook about Catarina and Apoyo.
“Catarina was originally an Indian settlement known as Dirianes and later as Namotivas,” says Quintanilla in English. “The church in Catarina was built in 1850. Catarina has two patron saints and two major festivals.”
Next up on Catarina’s celebration calendar is the fiesta of Santa Catarina in November. This is followed by the San Silvestre fiesta in December when many marathon runners descend on Catarina for a foot race on December 30.
If those dates and activities do not fit your agenda, you have a virtual smorgasbord of diversions in Catarina, whether for a day or an extended visit. All you need to do is take that first step to the bus or to the car and head to the hills.
