by Ashley Blaylock
Nicaragua is quickly becoming recognized as one of the best places to visit in Central America for surfing. With its uncrowded waves and offshore winds almost year round, there is no reason to wonder why.
I first came to Nicaragua in June 2003. In law school in Texas at the time, I was on a summer program to study international law in Costa Rica and one of the students suggested we visit San Juan del Sur. He’d heard it was a place becoming known among surfers as a good central launching point to get to see and surf some of the Coast’s best waves.
At that time, I honestly don’t know whether I could have pointed to Nicaragua on a map. Although I’d been to Costa Rica before, it hadn’t dawned on me to look north. I didn’t know anyone else who was looking in that direction either. I arrived late at night after a three-hour cab drive, alone, down what looked to me like a dirt road in the middle of nowhere, going to nowhere. The next day, we hit the surf.
Although I spent the better part of my time that first summer going over the falls almost the entire time, I was glad to be doing it because I knew I was paying dues that would come back to me in full. I returned a few weeks later, and then again, and again. Finally, I moved here full time to enjoy the sun, surf, and offshore winds creating some of the most perfectly formed waves I’ve ever seen.
Needless to say, from June 2003 to January 2007, things have changed… a bit. Tourism has grown exponentially, as has the real estate market (going from one real estate marketing operations when I first came to more than a dozen now). And the waves have inevitably become more crowded. But “crowded” for us in Nicaragua is more like “empty” in many places from which surfers come originally. Even still, I thought I had discovered paradise. Now, I’m convinced I have.
If you’ve never visited Nicaragua before, it is beautiful and most of the coastline remains undeveloped. It may also surprise you to know that the coastline changes dramatically as you travel north from Costa Rica past green, hilly terrain and then north to the vast coastal plains towards the border with Honduras. The southern Pacific region of Nicaragua is green and lush with lots of rolling valleys, hills, and dramatic cliffs and bluffs overlooking the ocean and its white sand beaches. The coastline in the southern areas is not straight and flat as it is further north: it is jagged and changing with a series of coves extending up from Costa Rica and into the southern Tola area and beyond, creating an abundance of world-class breaks along the way.
As you head further north, you will notice that the northern Pacific region is somewhat different in that the landscape is flatter. The beaches are long and straight and you could walk for miles along them. The climate is drier and more arid, with a different sort of vegetation, such as low-lying brush and fields as opposed to the tall trees and jungle you will find in the south. And the surf…? Well, as most of the northern breaks are still “off the map” so to speak, I will have to leave you to your own navigational devices for discovery there.
What I can tell you about is the experience I have had in surfing the southern Pacific Coast of Nicaragua, while, of course, discussing only the breaks which are already known to most Central American visitors, backpackers, and surfers alike. Indisputably, the most popular surfing break in terms of the sheer number of visitors it receives per year is Playa Maderas. It is a super fun, super consistent, “always breaking” beach break, with a popular point on the southern end, recently dubbed “Machete Point,” recognized more for being photogenic than for its actual ability to pump out high quality waves.
Waves break at Maderas almost year round and it is just plain old fun. This is the closest and most consistent break to where I live, so I love it. To get to Maderas, simply arrive in San Juan and look for any one of the many vehicles headed out by land or by sea.
My recommendation would be to stop by the Arena Caliente surf shop and speak with Byron, Kevin, Brent, or Pauline. Not only are these guys great at what they do, they are great fun. You can rent a board for about $10/day, hire an instructor for surf lessons, and/or get a ride to the beach for less than $6 roundtrip. Once you get to Maderas, you may not want to leave. Which is okay, because you can stay at the Tres Hermanos surf lodge on the beach at Maderas right in front of the break; or you can take a short walk down a few coves to Matilde’s, near the quiet beach at Majagual. Both places offer rooms for around $5 and camping for around $3. Tres Hermanos serves great typical food all day for around $3 a plate. Beers, soft drinks, and bottled water are around $1.
The only word of caution is that Maderas is by far the most crowded place around, so, contrary to popular belief, not the best place to learn for beginners. If you are just getting into surfing and want to try your hand at it in Nicaragua, a better suggestion might be to try Remanso Beach, closer to San Juan, only six kilometers and a 15-minute drive south. You can hire a taxi in town to take you out there for around $6/person roundtrip. The taxi can take you through the public entrance, which is free, or through the Remanso Beach development which costs $10, but includes a nice big breakfast and use of the facilities. The beach is beautiful and the waves are forgiving. The lineup is also a lot less crowded, making it the best spot for beginners.
If you are a more experienced surfer looking for a heavier wave with late drops into gaping pits, I suggest you hire a boat in San Juan and head north to the amazing barreling beach break frequently posted on www.nicaraguasurfreport.com. There is a second break just at the northern end of the beach, which is a deepwater reef capable of handle big (double-overhead+) swells. Even when big, it’s a little more forgiving than other spots, making it a good place to practice dropping into some of the bigger ones you might hesitate on elsewhere. The only problem there is access: you basically have to go by boat. There are several boats for hire in San Juan del Sur and I would recommend looking for Joey of Action Tours. He offers full day trips including food and drinks. If you are interested in staying at the break, you can check into rentals of the NSR beach house right in front of the break by visiting www.nicaraguasurfreport.com.
If you are really experienced, or, as some people might argue, really crazy, then you might want to try going a bit further north along the coast to surf the “Outer Reef”. This spot has been surfed by some of the best professional surfers from around the world, including Tom Carroll, Strider Wolinsky, and the Hobgoods. It only gets truly big enough to “work” as it should a handful of times throughout the year, and many times, it is only surfable by towing in with a jet ski. This is a world-class break and one of the best and biggest in all of Central America. It’s worth a visit during a big swell just to watch the big guys do their thing. If you actually want to test your skill by towing into one of those monsters, try and book a visit at JJ’s surf camp through Wave Hunters. They offer seasonal booking that includes tow-in sessions.
When visiting Nicaragua to surf its pristine beaches, one of the most important things to remember is to respect the people who live here, especially the locals, while in the water. Nicaragua is one of the few places where localism isn’t too heavy yet, and it can stay that way as long as the locals don’t feel the need to defend their spots. As long as no one is dropping in on them, snaking their waves, back-paddling, or paddle-battling, then they won’t have to bare their teeth, or their machetes, in the line-up. You wouldn’t like anyone hogging all your toys if they came over to play in your backyard either. It’s a good idea to always defer to the guy who looks local or like he’s been here longer – he probably has been and is probably having a hard time adjusting to having to share his “toys” after he’s been playing with them alone all these years.
For reservations on any of the places listed above, please see the following listing below and be sure to tell them Ashley sent you!
Arena Caliente Surf Camp: www.arenacaliente.com
Action Tours: www.actiontoursurfnica.com
Nicaragua Surf Report: www.nicaraguasurfreport.com
Going over the falls = going back up over the crest and letting the wave roll by
Barrel = hollow wave breaking in the form of a barrel
Beach Break = waves breaking over sand bottom
Reef Break = waves breaking over reef (rock or coral)
Snaking waves = stealing someone else’s wave
Paddle-battling = aggressively competing for waves
