Travel: Magical Miraflor
Story and photos by Bridget O´Brian
Hidden beneath the surface of a small lake in Northern Nicaragua lives a king. His underwater kingdom may not be huge, but it boasts beautiful gardens and a wide range of fruit trees. Once a year, the king rises to the surface with seven fair maidens and leaves a branch of flowers floating in the middle of the lake to prove to us land-dwellers he exists.
Ask a local about the Laguna de Miraflor and that’s the story you’ll probably get first. Other legends about the lake involve a giant serpent, underwater passageways to the nearby Laguna de Lodo, and possible volcanic activity.
The Laguna de Miraflor (whose name translates to “flower view”) is part of the 206-square-kilometer Miraflor Reserve and is not nearly as impressive as the rest of what the reserve has to offer.
Posted in Previous Issues, Issue 7: June - August 2004, Travel | No Comments »
Tags: beautiful gardens, Between, bridget obrian, cloud forest, dry zone, fruit trees, giant serpent, lush, magazine, nicaragua, northern nicaragua, the, Travel, underwater kingdom, volcanic activity, Waves
Travel: Laid Back Beach Getaway
by John Edward Longhi
To buy my dinner for the evening, I walked down to the edge of the beach. Fisherman carried their morning catch into the market or sold it straight from their boats. When the marketing was concluded, helpers removed the large outboard engines from boats and, using large logs, rolled the “pangas” onto the sand. The villagers chatted with the fishermen and peered into the containers of sea bass, mackerel and red snapper.
Posted in Previous Issues, Issue 6: March - May 2004, Travel | No Comments »
Tags: Between, Casares, fishing, La Boquita, magazine, nicaragua, relaxing, the, Travel, Waves
Travel: Nicaragua’s Northwest Peninsula
by Amy Kimber
If you’re looking for an off-the-beaten-track adventure, the northwest corner of Nicaragua is an excellent place to start.
A mood of chaos and comedy permeates the roads in this part of the country, due partly to the frequent torrential downpours of the rainy season and the series of mud-filled craters buses are forced to traverse north of Chinandega.
If it is raining when you leave town, you shouldn’t be surprised to see dogs swimming through the intersection. But the absence of all but the most determined street-vendor ladies hawking food and drink at the frequent stops makes you realize the gravity of the flood.
You may also become a little anxious about the siege-like conditions passengers seem to be preparing themselves for, as huge sacks of flour, car tires, miscellaneous farm equipment and, more disturbingly, enough gasoline to last at least three months, are loaded onto the top. (more…)
Posted in Full Stories, Previous Issues, Issue 5: Dec 2003 - Feb 2004, Travel | No Comments »
Tags: amy kimber, Between, chinandega, craters, Fonseca Gulf, Jiquilillo Beach, magazine, nicaragua, northwest corner, the, Travel, Volcano Cosigüina, Waves
Travel: Nicaragua’s Black Forest - Selva Negra
by Melanie McGrath
The Kuhls found themselves in Nicaragua more or less by accident
On the face of it, their home city of Hamburg, Germany didn’t have much in common with the cloud-forested mountains of Matagalpa, Nicaragua, where the Kuhls eventually settled. All the same, they found they were happy there.
The move was Hans Bosch’s idea. Well, not his exactly. During the 1870s Bosch had been poking around Central America looking for gold when he fell into conversation with a Nicaraguan official who suggested he give up the hunt for gold, return to Germany and bring back some hardy souls who’d be willing to cultivate coffee in Nicaragua. At the time, coffee was not much grown in Central America but the official knew that northern Nicaragua would provide the perfect conditions for it. Why mine for gold, the official said, when you can grow it? (more…)
Posted in Previous Issues, Issue 4: Sep - Nov 2003, Travel | No Comments »
Tags: Between, cloud forest, coffee, gold, magazine, melanie mcgrath, mountains, nicaragua, organic, Selva Negra, shade grown, the, Travel, Waves
Travel: Little Corn Island - Potions, Pirates and Paradise
by Marie Mendel
A slice of Caribbean paradise, Little Corn Island’s charming locals spice up a traveler’s visit with mysterious stories of their island.
Pedro likes to crank them up! That is the two 200 horse power V6 Yamaha outboard motors on the panga taking tourists and locals to Little Corn Island. Nothing like Columbus felt when he sailed by Big and Litte Corn Islands in 1502; he found no people and sailed on.
Upon arriving on Little Corn, the island looks like the centerfold of a travel magazine, palm trees wave at us and crystal clear blue water invites us. For exiting the boat, the deckhand brings Pepsi cases strung tightly together to use as steps. Women are sitting under a tree waiting for goods, newspapers, and gossip from the mainland. (more…)
Posted in Previous Issues, Issue 3: June - August 2003, Travel | No Comments »
Tags: Between, charming locals, Corn Island, magazine, Marie Mendel, nicaragua, paradise, the, Travel, Waves
Travel: Reflections from the Miskito Coast
by Philip B. Hildebrand
It had taken ten hours of tough pounding through ocean waves to reach Cabo Viejo, as remote in Nicaragua as you can get. I had chosen this place for its Miskito origins and heritage, to understand better the history and culture of Nicaragua’s Atlantic coast. I was searching for that special kind of truth that comes from being a witness, rather than solely a student of words
My hammock hung a few feet above dark waters as I studied my surroundings and remembered what I had read. I thought of what had occurred in these lands and waters over the past 500 years. I recalled the survivors’ chilling accounts of how nature and man twice destroyed everything that I could see from where I lay. (more…)
Posted in Previous Issues, Issue 1: Dec 2002 - Feb 2003, Travel | No Comments »
Tags: Between, magazine, nicaragua, the, Waves
Travel: Corn Island - What’s next?
by Coco Palmer
Corn Island is a beautiful, unspoiled place. Its white sand beaches, turquoise waters, swaying palms, and coral reefs are the stuff of hedonist getaway dreams. Eleven square kilometers of postcard picture scenes everywhere you turn: tropical forested hills, mangroves, and beaches.
It is also a place clearly at a crossroads. The Island has had ever-shifting populations and their means of subsistence have varied. It is poised to remake itself as a tourist destination, and the time is now.
What is the story? Legend has it that the first name given to Corn Island was Skeleton Island due to table scraps left over from the resident Kukra Indians’ cannibalistic appetites. English pirates and a few French, Dutch, and other Europeans used the Island as a base of operations and resupply for their raids against the rival Spanish Empire’s fleet and settlements in the region.
Posted in Issue 15: June - August 2006, Travel | No Comments »
Tags: beaches, Corn Island, tourism, Travel
Travel: Living in the Bush Like a Real Miskito
by Philip B. Hildebrand
Our dugout canoe motored slowly upriver leaving civilization far behind. The sun sank below the trees and all color disappeared. We pushed onward into the increasingly darkening wilderness. No one other than Miskito Indians had been here for at least twenty years. Augustine, rifle at the ready, crouched in the bow, his keen eyes studying the shoreline hoping for some sign of movement. Octavio tried to entice me into shooting a monkey high up in a tree, claiming it would be delicious with the roots we had found earlier.
Nicaragua’s eastern lowlands are a world apart from the rest of the country. This vast mosaic of forests, rivers, lakes, and swamps is the Miskito Indian’s homeland and they are its masters. Having lived for years in Puerto Cabezas, I know the area’s ocean, offshore cays, coastal communities, and major lagoons as do only a handful of foreigners. But these are not the region’s heart; rather they are its genteel fringes. To better understand this land and its people, I had come here to begin learning how to travel, hunt, fish, and live in the wilderness. My tutors were experts for few know this place as do the friends in whose care I was. When we set out, Octavio told me, “Now you are going to live in the bush like a real Miskito.”
Posted in Issue 16: Sep - Nov 2006, Travel | No Comments »
Tags: cays, coastal communities, fishing, lagoons, miskito, nature, swamps, Travel
Travel: Rio San Juan - A River Through Paradise
by MSc. Ronald Betancourt
(from the Spanish original)
Among so many places I have visited throughout Nicaragua, one worthy of special admiration is the Río San Juan. This impressive and majestic water route has inspired poets and writers, conquistadores and pirates thirsty for riches, scientists, and those just curious about nature. From their lips pours a flow of poetry and praise for its majesty and fascination.
This small piece of Nicaragua has become a historical and cultural paradise in which the echoes of past struggles resound in the dreams of each visitor. Nature and all its attributes interplay with each other. The residents show us the simplicity of their culture and the grandness of their way of life.
(more…)
Posted in Issue 18: March - May 2007, Travel | No Comments »
Tags: Bartola River, boca de sabalos, Caribbean, Cartagena de Indias, Cocibolca, el castillo, flora and fauna, Fortress of the Immaculate Conception, freshwater shark, Havana, Indio Maiz Reserve, Indio River, nature, Portobelo, ronald betancourt, san carlos, San Juan del Norte, san juan river, solentiname, Travel, wildlife