Travel: Pearl Lagoon - Sueño Carieño

by Carlito Rockola

pearl-lagoon.jpgTo get to the town of Pearl Lagoon you first fly from Managua into the Atlantic coast port of Bluefields and then by fast water taxi through some 50 miles of winding jungle rivers north to the Rio Escondido and connecting channels to the Pearl Lagoon basin. You will have arrived at not only a beautiful geographic location, but in many ways a nation apart.  

The Caribbean coast of Nicaragua has a culture apart and is fiercely self aware of it. First settled by the English, who reputedly used it as a base for buccaneers, the Atlantic coast culture started out differently from the Spanish culture prevalent in the rest of Nicaragua and remains that way today. It is in some towns Afro-Carib, in others indigenous Miskito Indian. (more…)

 

Posted in Full Stories, Previous Issues, Issue 9: Dec 2004 - Feb 2005, Travel | No Comments »
Tags: atlantic coast, Between, Buccaneers, Carlito Rockola, lobster, magazine, Miskito Indian, nicaragua, Pearl Cays, Pearl Lagoon, Reggae, Rio Escondido, shrimp, South Atlantic Autonomous Region, Tarpon, the, Travel, Tropical savannahs, Waves

Activity: Kayak Nicaragua

by Carlito Rockola

surf-kayak.jpgKayaking originated with the Eskimos of Greenland and Alaska, who built kayaks by stretching seal or other animal skins over a driftwood or whalebone frame and rubbing them with animal fat to waterproof the covering. The kayak was used for fishing and hunting; in the 20th century the Eskimos gradually abandoned them in favor of motorboats. But the rest of the world adopted kayaks; now instead of animal hide, kayaks are constructed from wood, fiberglass, plastic, polypropylene and Kevlar in an array of designs and sizes for uses from ocean touring to Olympic racing to shooting white water rapids. (more…)

 

Posted in Full Stories, Previous Issues, Issue 8: Sep - Nov 2004, Activity | No Comments »
Tags: Activity, Between, Carlito Rockola, granada, Kayaking, Las Isletas, magazine, nicaragua, surf kayaking, the, Waves

Fishing: Fishing the Rio San Juan

by Mike Sabine

fishing-rio-san-juan.jpgIf there is one word to describe the experience of the Rio San Juan, it would be life. There is so much life, in so many forms, in, on and around this river that connects Lake Nicaragua to the Atlantic Ocean that it beggars description where to start. Dense jungle forest rises like twin green palisades along its banks, vine wrapped trees and tangled ground foliage crowd the river’s edge. Egrets, cranes and storks wade the shallows feeding on small fish. Flocks of waterfowl leap frog down the river. Troops of monkeys call from the trees and alligators sunning themselves on rocks slide into the water as your boat glides by. And fish, most apparently the huge silver tarpon, jump and roll on the river’s surface. (more…)

 

Posted in Full Stories, Previous Issues, Issue 7: June - August 2004, Fishing | No Comments »
Tags: Between, fishing, Lake Nicaragua, machaca, magazine, Mike Sabine, nicaragua, rainbow bass, rio san juan, san carlos, Snook, the, Waves

History: Tales of the Buccaneers

by Zac Clemens

henry-morgan.jpgThe Buccaneers of the Spanish Main captured the imagination of generations, freebooters who lived by the sword and gun, sailing the Caribbean in search of fortunes in gold and silver. They also captured and burned several cities in colonial Nicaragua, adding a colorful page to the nations’ early history.

In 1519 the conquistador Cortes looted and butchered his way through the Mayan Empire of Mexico and sent back to Spain ship loads of gold and silver, spreading tales of untold riches more. Conquistadors, professional soldiers spawned in the incessant European warfare of the era, would respond in waves. Men like Cordoba, Alvarado, and Pizarro would wreak havoc on centuries-old new world native civilizations. The accumulated riches of the Indian nations were plundered and their populations decimated. In Nicaragua, the four indigenous tribes -the Chorotega, Nahua, Maribios and Chontlal- numbered 700,000 at the time of Spanish contact in 1522. Twenty six years later, only 35,000 remained. Survivors were enslaved in gold and silver mines or plantations to provide a steady stream of wealth. Within a hundred years of Columbus’ 1492 voyage, an empire larger than Europe, called the Spanish Main, would span a crescent from Florida to Peru. (more…)

 

Posted in Full Stories, Previous Issues, Issue 6: March - May 2004, History | No Comments »
Tags: Between, Buccaneers, Chontlal, Chorotega, conquistador, Gold mining, growing sugar cane, Henry Morgan, History, indigenous tribes, magazine, maribios, Nahua, nicaragua, privateer, Spanish Main, the, tobacco, Waves, zac clemens

Travel: Nicaragua’s Northwest Peninsula

by Amy Kimber

cosiguina.jpgIf you’re looking for an off-the-beaten-track adventure, the northwest corner of Nicaragua is an excellent place to start.

A mood of chaos and comedy permeates the roads in this part of the country, due partly to the frequent torrential downpours of the rainy season and the series of mud-filled craters buses are forced to traverse north of Chinandega.

If it is raining when you leave town, you shouldn’t be surprised to see dogs swimming through the intersection. But the absence of all but the most determined street-vendor ladies hawking food and drink at the frequent stops makes you realize the gravity of the flood.

You may also become a little anxious about the siege-like conditions passengers seem to be preparing themselves for, as huge sacks of flour, car tires, miscellaneous farm equipment and, more disturbingly, enough gasoline to last at least three months, are loaded onto the top. (more…)

 

Posted in Full Stories, Previous Issues, Issue 5: Dec 2003 - Feb 2004, Travel | No Comments »
Tags: amy kimber, Between, chinandega, craters, Fonseca Gulf, Jiquilillo Beach, magazine, nicaragua, northwest corner, the, Travel, Volcano Cosigüina, Waves

Activity: Remarkable Journey

by Mike Sabine
fishing-trip.jpgStrictly speaking, this is a fishing trip story, but it does not stay in the memory that way. Rather, it was a remarkable journey through natural, ecological, and cultural diversity. Chasing Tarpon, the mighty “silver king,” was a great reason to go.

The voyage goes from Bluefields Lagoon and up through Pearl Lagoon to Top Lock, a smaller water body fed by the Rio Grande de Matagalpa. On land, it would cross the same latitudes as a road trip between Masaya and Matagalpa. No roads here though and so it is faster by boat.

It was also a journey across an amazing variety of aquatic systems: from miles- wide shallow lagoons that stretch across the horizon to broad mountain-fed rivers, to narrow snaking jungle-lined creeks. There are small lagoons off the large ones and dredged canals connect them all.
(more…)

 

Posted in Full Stories, Issue 15: June - August 2006, Activity | No Comments »
Tags: Activity, Bluefields Lagoon, matagalpa, Mestizo, nature, Pearl Lagoon, RAAS

History: The Persistent “President”

The most outrageous of the American filibusters, the audacious William Walker left an indelible mark on Nicaragua.

by Eric Alberts
Seizing Nicaragua for three years, William Walker declared English the official language, reintroduced slavery and upon pronouncing his Presidency was given brief recognition by the US. His actions helped determine the capital, redraw the borders of Nicaragua, and briefly unite Liberals with Conservatives.

Dissatisfied with three respected professions, at he age of 25 Walker decided his future lay in the niche of filibustering, a career path that lead him to his own manifest destiny - reigning over a country.
(more…)

 

Posted in Full Stories, Issue 16: Sep - Nov 2006, History | No Comments »
Tags: granada, History, Law, Río San Juan, San Juan del Norte, William Walker

Business: Coffee - The Other Black Gold

by Mike Sabine
The story often told of the discovery of coffee is that of an Arabian goat herder who saw his flock dancing joyously around a bush with brightly colored berries. Upon ingesting them himself and experiencing the stimulating effects, he began to dance as well. From this fanciful beginning, coffee has grown to be the second most valuable commodity traded today, after petroleum.

With some 400 billion cups consumed every year, it is the world’s most popular beverage. The latest forecast for this years’ yield predicts exports from Nicaragua (mostly to Europe) will be in excess of 200 million dollars, making it the nation’s number one export.
(more…)

 

Posted in Full Stories, Issue 16: Sep - Nov 2006, Business | No Comments »
Tags: Business, coffee, León, matagalpa, Mike Sabine, Selva Negra, vocanoes, volcano mombacho

History: Nicaragua’s Rock in the River of Time

by Philip B. Hildebrand
The extreme northeastern corner of Nicaragua sits today as it has for millennia, a low, sandy finger of land pointing into the ocean whose waves beat incessantly upon it. This is the famous Cabo Gracias a Dios at the mouth of the Río Coco, Central America’s longest river (550 km) and nearby Cabo Viejo the adjacent town and lagoon. Virtually no tourists have ever been here and few likely ever will, for it is a dangerous place, difficult to reach and offering little to the normal visitor. Over the past decade, this historic locale has become a haven for heavily-armed international drug traffickers who do not take kindly to inquisitive outsiders. I knew I had to come here.
(more…)

 

Posted in Full Stories, Issue 17: Dec 2006 - Feb 2007, History | No Comments »
Tags: atlantic coast, cabo gracias a dios, cabo viejo, christopher columbus, English, granada, History, matagalpa, miskito, puerto cabezas, rio coco, rivas, Sandinistas, Spaniards

Real Estate: Develop with a conscience

by Donn Wilson
I recall a vivid image from my childhood of Native Indian Chief Seattle crying over a dump somewhere in New Jersey. “We don’t inherit the earth from our fathers,” he said. “We borrow it from our grandchildren.” At 12 years old it was a powerful statement, but in your mid-40’s with children of your own, the image can really grab you.

I wonder why I never really reacted to that call of conservation, protection, and recycling when I was younger. Sure, I did my bit like most everyone, but why didn’t I get as passionate then as I feel now? Lack of knowledge, lack of opportunity, or just plain apathy?
(more…)

 

Posted in Full Stories, Issue 17: Dec 2006 - Feb 2007, Real Estate | No Comments »
Tags: Al Gore, An Inconvenient Truth, developments, Donn Wilson, environmentally friendly, Kudzu, Kyoto Treaty, Las Fincas, Paso Pacifico, Pueblo Limpio, real estate, recycling, reforestation, stop clear cutting, Surf Rider Foundation, Wastewater treatment systems


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