Located Between the Waves of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, the country of Nicaragua is an intriguing land of dramatic scenery and friendly people. Although its abundance of waterways, volcanoes, colonial cities and tranquil pueblos offer tourists much to explore, Nicaragua’s tumultuous recent history has left it comparatively undiscovered.

Over the past 30 years, the country has endured devastating political upheaval and natural disasters that have caused enormous human suffering. An earthquake in 1972 killed 10,000 people and nearly destroyed the nation’s capital. The 1979 overthrow of Anastasio Somoza and the subsequent war killed tens of thousands and crippled the economy. In 1998, Hurricane Mitch shattered the country’s infrastructure, killed thousands and left one-fifth of the population in refugee camps.

These hardships have, in the past, made Nicaragua seem an undesirable and potentially unsafe place to visit. These perceptions are changing, however, and travelers are learning not only how much the country has to offer but also that it is now considered one of the safest countries in Central and South America. Nicaragua today is one of the fastest growing tourist and investment destinations in the region and offers attractive investment incentives. Nicaragua’s greatest economic promise may lie in its tourist industry, which has already become the country’s second largest source of income.

Despite adversity, Nicaragua’s resilient population is growing at 2.6% annually. The capital of Managua has a population of nearly one million people and the majority of the four million other residents are concentrated primarily in the Pacific lowlands, a region preferred for its rich volcanic soil and cooler, dryer climate.

Nicaragua’s government is a republic that holds elections every five years. The current president, Daniel Ortega, represents the Sandinista National Liberation Front (FSLN). He was elected with 38% of the votes in November of 2006, winning over Eduardo Montealegre of the National Liberal Alliance (ALN) 29%, José Rizo of the Constitutional Liberal Party (PLC) 26% and Edmundo Jarquín of the Sandinista Renewal Movement (MRS) 7%.

Nicaragua has one of the lowest per capita incomes in the world and its economy is also one of the weakest. With massive external debt, chronic infrastructure issues, and high unemployment, Nicaragua continues to be dependent on foreign aid and debt relief. Luckily, Nicaragua has some of the most varied and abundant natural resources in Central America. Nicaragua’s volcanoes have only begun to be tapped as sources of geothermal energy and the rich volcanic soil they’ve created is perfect for producing coffee, the country’s largest export. Fish and beef are the second and third largest export commodities and the country has rich forests of commercial timber in addition to petroleum and mineral reserves, including gold.

Banks
Banks accept travelers’ checks, major credit cards (Visa and Mastercard) and are available in all large cities. Visitors can obtain US dollars from Credomatic who accept all major credit cards with display of passport (274-4444). Managua, León and Granada have ATMs that accept Visa; however, it does not work with all Visa cards. Tourists should be aware that travelers’ checks can be difficult to cash outside of banks. Money-changers will exchange US dollars and several other Central American currencies for córdobas and are readily available on the street and are used by locals and tourists. The exchange rate has been hovering near 18.1 córdobas to the US dollar.

Telephone
The country code is 505. Enitel, the national phone company, will place calls for you with a three-minute minimum. Phone cards are available in most major tourist destinations. Internet phones are available at Internet cafes and can be used for significantly lower overseas rates. Remember, however, that connection speed can be a significant drawback.

Post Offices
There are post offices, called Correos de Nicaragua, in nearly every town, open standard business hours.

Accommodations
Nicaragua has a range of accommodations from luxury resorts to dormitories. Managua has the widest selection with flashy hotels, international chains, a variety of mid-range hotels and budget options located primarily in Barrio Martha Quezada, west of Crowne Plaza. Granada and León each have beautiful high-end colonial hotels, several mid-range hotels, some with pools, and a choice of budget options. Other towns attracting larger numbers of visitors such as San Juan del Sur, Ometepe, Matagalpa and Estelí, have mid-range hotels offering air-conditioning and cable television.

Budget hospedajes are plentiful throughout the country, providing rooms with fans and private or shared baths with unheated water showers. These can be booked in the price range of US$3-15. The mid-range hotels range in price from US$17-60 and the high-end up to $160 in Managua. If you inquire, some mid-range hotels offer rooms without air-conditioning for a lower rate. The auto hotels along the highways are often discreet love shacks.

The protected areas of Mombacho, San Ramón on Ometepe, Miraflor, Laguna de Apoyo, and Indio Maíz Biological Reserve near El Castillo on the Río San Juan offer over-night stays in their ranger stations. Camping is also available near San Juan del Sur.

The accommodation choice that offers the most cultural immersion is a home-stay with a local family. Many families supplement their incomes through renting rooms in their homes and usually offer meals at minimal additional cost. This option includes the opportunity to learn Spanish, learn more about the country and make new friends. Home-stays are offered throughout the country and are most easily arranged through Spanish schools, primarily in the more popular tourist areas.

Check with local tourist offices to find hotel listings and inquire about prices and services.

One million of the country’s five million citizens reside here-the cosmopolitan hotspot of the country. Managua is an intriguing city and while it may not inspire immediate affection, it can grow on you over time. It may be difficult to navigate within the city. Although it was designated the capital of Nicaragua in 1857, after William Walker was expelled from Granada, Managua has yet to give its streets names. To aggravate matters, Managua has never fully recovered from a devastating earthquake and fire in 1931 and an earthquake that destroyed a 600-block area in the center of the city in 1972. Although many visitors to Nicaragua choose to sightsee elsewhere, the city’s many restaurants, shops, galleries, cultural performances and its active nightlife make it an interesting and entertaining destination.

Activities In Town
Managua is a large city and can be somewhat intimidating. Crimes against tourists are uncommon in Nicaragua but this is the city in which they most frequently occur. Use common sense, take cabs at night rather than walking and remain conscious of safeguarding your valuables as you would in most big cities. For navigation, find landmarks and use them, carry a map, ask for help or have a taxi take you to your destinations.

The Plaza de la República, formerly the Plaza de la Revolución and the old city center, is located on Lake Managua and is famous for the many political events that have taken place here over the decades. On the plaza, the shell of Catedral de Santiago, damaged in the 1972 earthquake after surviving the 1931 disaster, still stands and is, at this time, closed to the public. Also on the plaza, the Palacio Nacional de la Cultura houses the Museo Nacional with natural history and archeological displays, contemporary art and visiting exhibits, and the Rubén Darío National Library. This beautiful building also has an interesting revolutionary history; ask about it from the knowledgeable English-speaking guides. The museum hours are 8AM-5PM Monday through Friday and 9AM-4PM on Sa
turday and Sunday (222-3845). Across from the museum is the new palace of the President, where on occasion former President Enrique Bolaños made speeches on its steps. The country’s most famous and prolific theater, Teatro Rubén Darío, is on the northeast end of the plaza. For a schedule of performances or art exhibits, call 222-4205 or 222-3630. At the south end of the plaza is Centro Cultural de Managua. Visit during the day and you will be able to see artists at work and hear musicians practicing. Performances are also held here. A block north is the Malecón that comes alive and festive on Sundays after 3:00PM with Managuans flocking to the lake’s edge for live music, food and drink.

The Plaza de la República is part of a larger area called Area Monumental. Although one of the first places recommended to see, you will find the area largely unpopulated, in part due to earthquake damage. Just past the Centro Cultural de Managua there are several sculptures that provide an interesting reflection upon Nicaraguan history and development. The first sculpture is of a man reaching skyward with a machine gun and a pickaxe, a monument to the heroes of the Sandinista revolution. If you walk east, you will pass other sculptures and arrive at the Parque de la Paz (Park of the Peace). There is a lighthouse in its center and if you walk to the left, you will see weapons semi-buried in cement. This installation of weapons used during the revolution was orchestrated by ex-president Violeta Chamorro in order to make a statement for change and peace.

You may consider visiting the new cathedral, Nueva Catedral, pictures of which you’ll see in every brochure. For more information call 278-7063. If you climb the hill of Loma de Tiscapa, behind the Hotel Crowne Plaza (in the shape of a pyramid), you will see an enormous Sandino sculpture and be able to enjoy a great view of Managua’s unique geographical setting.

Locals enjoy having drinks after work and joining them for ‘happy hour’ at one of the many nightspots in town makes an enjoyable evening after a day’s sightseeing. You can find live music in a variety of types in clubs around Managua, many on Carretera Masaya.

Shopping
Managua has many opportunities for shopping and has large shopping centers, supermarkets called supermercados, and local markets in each corner of the city.

Shopping Centers
Carretera Masaya - On the highway leading to Masaya is the city’s newest district of development. There you can find restaurants, discos, casinos, offices, banks and stores.

Galerias de Santo Domingo and Multi Centro Las Americas are the two newest of the five modern shopping malls in Managua offering international chain store shopping in a posh setting.

Centro Commercial of Managua - This center consists of individual stores catering to locals and offers a variety of products. Go east from Rotunda Centro América from Carretera Masaya to reach.

Metrocentro Mall - Next to the new Hotel Intercontinental Metrocentro and not far from Carretera Masaya is the newest and largest mall and offering air-conditioning, international chains, a food court and cinemas. The food court is packed at lunch and is considered the place to ‘see and be seen’.

Plaza Inter - Next to the pyramid-shaped Hotel Intercontinental Managua and near Barrio Martha Quezada, this mall includes a department store, small novelty shops, a food court, cinemas, Internet access and air-conditioning.

Price Smart -100 meters before Rotonda el Güegüense heading west. The newest and most comprehensive, however, you need a membership card.

Supermarkets
The following supermarkets have many locations and are easily reached by taxi.
La Colonia -This chain is the most upscale of the markets and has prepared foods, a café, alcohol, books and magazines (with selections in English), clothes and the best selection of Nicaraguan and imported food including organic vegetables, cheeses and meats.
La Unión -This is the mid-range supermarket, similar to La Colonia.
Palí -This is a warehouse-style market with generally lower prices.

Markets
There are four big markets, predominantly offering household items, toiletries, clothing, shoes and more. Mercado Roberto Huembes has the best collection of arts and crafts for sale and is considered the safest market. These markets also serve as bus stations.

Excursions Nearby
Managua is centrally located and most of Nicaragua’s major cites and beaches are within a few hours drive. Pochomil and Montelimar, the largest resort in the country, are beaches located an hour away from Managua. Chocoyero-El Brujo is a waterfall and natural reserve located 23 kilometers south of the city. Masaya is a town famous as a home for arts and crafts. The markets sell a wide selection of Nicaragua’s crafts including ceramics, wooden objects, woven baskets, primitive paintings, hammocks, cigars, coffee and even stuffed iguanas and large frogs. Live traditional music and dance are offered here on Thursday evenings. If you visit Masaya’s villages, particularly Catarina, San Juan de Oriente and Monimbó, you will be able to see craftspeople at work. The nearby Masaya National Park is home to an active volcano and has a visitor center. An excellent scenic drive from Managua heading south is traveling via the western roads through El Crucero, Diriamba and Jinotepe, known as ranching country. This route hugs the foothills and mountains and offers vistas and glimpses of pleasant small pueblos. Coffee tours are gaining in popularity and can be arranged through a tour agency.

Restaurants and Nightlife
Managua’s upscale restaurants and most popular nightspots are located along Carretera Masaya between Centro America Roundabout and Metrocentro or Rubén Darío Roundabout. Zona Rosa in this same area caters predominantly to the young crowd; visitors should be aware of their valuables. The shopping malls have food courts with western style or Nicaraguan fast food. Around Martha Quezada Barrio, you will find budget style comedors and fritangas serving meat, beans, rice, plantains and salad.

Services
Banks, Credomatic and ATMs are located in or near shopping malls and hotels. Tellers will request to see your passport. Internet access is easily found in storefronts, malls and hotels starting at 15 córdobas per hour. Car rental is available at the airport with additional offices in the city and the larger hotels. The majority of tour companies operate out of Managua. Check with INTUR, your local contacts or the phone book to find what is available. Tours, including day-tours and eco-tourist adventures, are offered to destinations throughout the country.
Visa Office 266-0747, MasterCard and American Express Office 278-0500

Transportation Buses and Expresos
Local buses stop every four blocks and riding them is one way to learn your way around the city. Feel free to ask the drivers or conductors for your desired location.
For major destinations, buses leave every half-hour or less.

From Mercado Roberto Huembes: Departures for Granada, Masaya, Rivas (to reach San Jorge for ferries to Isla de Ometepe) and Tipitapa. Expresos and directos depart hourly (from the left/outgoing side of the bus plaza) for Rivas till 5PM with a 4PM expreso to San Juan del Sur.

From Mercado Israel Lewites: Departures for Chinandega, Jinotepe, León, and Pochomil. Expresos depart frequently for Chinandega and León.

From Mercado Mayoreo: Departures for Boaco, Estelí, Juigalpa, Matagalpa, Ocotal, Rama, Siuna, and Somoto. Expresos depart frequently for Matagalpa, Estelí, and Jinotega.

From U.C.A.: Expresos to Granada, Masaya, Jinotepe, and the Carazo towns departing frequently throughout the day.

Taxis
Taxi service is more than sufficient. You can reach most all destinations within the city for 10-50 córdobas a person. Taxis are recommended over local buses because they are faster and only slightly more expensive and to avoid pick-pockets. Always negotiate your price in advance. It helps to have the written address for less well-known destinations. Prices go up at night but you should take a taxi rather than walk. Better yet, hire the cab solo so it does not pick-up other customers.

Founded in 1524, Granada enjoys the distinction of being the oldest colonial city in the Americas. Situated on the edge of Lake Nicaragua and in the shadow of Mombacho volcano, Granada is a romantic city of colorful colonial homes and churches. In this relaxed and mellow city, you can enjoy one of the most pleasant central parks in Latin America, festive outdoor concerts every Friday night, visits to local museums, lively discos by the lake, and a history that includes the exploits of the infamous William Walker, who attempted to burn the city down in 1856. Granada is a great place to use as a base to explore many of Nicaragua’s popular highlights.

Activities In Town
You can wander in the buildings and stores around parque central, also known as Parque Colón, including the Palacio de Cultura Joaquín Cuadra Pasos, on the west side. On the south east corner La Gran Francia, a building dating back to the founding of the city and which has been reconstructed to reflect the finest colonial architecture of that period. On the north end of the plaza on the right side, you’ll see a stone portico with lions, the only surviving portion of the original building burnt by William Walker. Today it is Casa de los Tres Mundos, an arts and cultural center where you can catch an exhibition or arts rehearsal (Monday through Sunday, 8AM-6PM). If you walk north to the edge of the park, then one block east, you can visit the museum located in the oldest church of Central America. Convento e Iglesia de San Francisco, founded in 1529, houses archeological treasures from Isla de Ometepe, a primitive art exhibit, and historical displays, some with English information (Monday through Sunday, 9AM-6PM). Horse-drawn carriages, called los coches, are another way to tour the city. Look for the Spanish tiles marking the city highlighting historical sites and events, including the homes of past presidents and the exploits of William Walker. On the west side of the city, you can explore an interesting old cemetery with tombs of both the rich and poor dating back more than a century. One block east is Fortaleza La Pólvora, built in 1749. If the fortification appears to be closed, knock at the gate. Once inside, you can climb a turret for a good view of the city.

Walk by Lake Nicaragua for the cool breeze and views. Just off Granada in the lake is Las Isletas, made up of more than 360 islands created when the Mombacho volcano exploded 20,000 years ago. This is a beautiful excursion in a setting of tiny tropical islands richly covered in vegetation and many with holiday mansions. In addition to the interesting flora and fauna of Las Isletas, on one island there are the remnants of a fort, El Castillo San Pablo, built in 1784. Boat trips can be easily organized for US$10-15 per hour, per boat. There are three points with excellent views from which to dine, fish or explore Las Isletas -Puerto Assese, Club Nautica, and the docks at the end of Centro Turístico. You can reach the ports via a short cab ride from the center of town. Antique, craft and artisan stores are increasing in number and one can find pleasing items to take home along Calle La Calzada. Locals and tourists enjoy great music at the few modern bars in town, or you can visit one of the popular discos near the lake and experience one of Nicaragaun’s greatest passions – dancing.

Excursions Nearby
Laguna de Apoyo is a volcano crater lake that can be seen from Mirador de Catarina. Only a half-hour drive or bus ride away from Granada, you reach the mirador by going through the village of Catarina, known for its nurseries of wonderful flowering plants and for local crafts. From one of the crater-side restaurants, you can enjoy cool wind, an amazing view and often, musicians performing. On the crater’s edge, accessible via a different road visitors can hike, swim, kayak and windsurf. An alternate route for reaching Laguna de Apoyo is hiking there. Leaving from the northeast corner of Granada’s cemetery, visitors can enjoy a 2 1/2 hour round-trip predominantly level walk to the craters edge. Stay straight on the path and after the road curves south, cut across a fenced field that will take you to the craters lip. Feel free to ask locals for directions and remember your sunscreen.

On the road from Catarina heading south towards Nandaime, turn right at the entrance of San Juan del Oriente. You will find a pleasant pueblo, easily walkable, where you can tour the workshops and stores of local ceramic artisans. The Mombacho Volcano Reserva, with its thick cloud forest, cool climate, well-marked trails, biological station, and wonderful views of Granada and Las Isletas, is an hour drive from Granada and shouldn’t be missed. It can be reached by car, public transport or by tour. Zipping through the trees on lines, a canopy tour on the slopes of Mombacho is popular for the fun factor. If you’d like to experience the sights and smells of an active volcano, you can visit Masaya Volcano National Park, which has walking trails and a visitor center. Combine your visit to the park with a visit to El Coyotepe, both of which are just north of Masaya on the highway. The fort was built in the 1890s and later was a Somozan prison. The fort offers an incredible view of the volcanoes, lagoons and lakes of this region. The Masaya markets are known as the center of Nicaraguan arts and crafts and are in the town of Masaya. The most popular of the markets is Mercado Viejo.

Services
There are banking facilities and ATMs; Internet access is available for as low as 20 córdobas per hour; tour companies; book exchanges at several hospedajes; laundry service; real estate sales; cinema; clothes; toiletries; supermarkets; and cars, bicycles and kayaks available for rental.

Transportation
Buses: Managua: Departures every 15 minutes from near the old hospital, 4AM to 7PM; a one-hour trip arriving at Mercado Roberto Huembes. Managua Expresos: Microbuses depart every 20 minutes from near BAC, Monday through Saturday, 5:00AM to 8PM, and Sunday until 5PM; 45-minute trip arriving at UCA.
Masaya: Departures every 25 minutes from the market, 4:20AM to 6PM, 45 minute-trip. These buses go into the town of Masaya but do not pass Masaya Volcano National Park. To reach the park, take a Managua bus and ask to be let off at the entrance.
Rivas: Departures from the market next to the Shell station, direct buses 5:45, 6:30, 7:10, 8, 9:30, 11:30AM, 12:30, 1:30PM; 90-minute trip. Sundays 7:30 and 11:30AM
Mombacho: Take a bus going to Nandaime or Rivas and ask to be let off at Mombacho, after which there is a 20-minute walk.
Jinotepe: Departures from the market 6:00AM, 7:30AM, 8:30AM, 10:15AM and 12:00PM
Diriamba and the Carazo towns: Departures every 20 minutes from the market, 6AM to 5:05PM; 35-45 minute trips.
Nandaime: Departures every 20 minutes from the market, 5AM to 6PM.
Catarina and San Juan del Oriente: Buses to Niquinohomo can take you there. Departures every 20 minutes from the market, 5:00AM to 5:50PM; another common route is to take a bus to Masaya or Managua, ask to get off at the Catarina turn-off, then cross the street and catch a bus heading for Catarina.
Ometepe: Depart via bus to Rivas, then take a short taxi ride to the dock at San Jorge, a small town next to Rivas. Catch a ferry to Moyogalpa, departures daily, almost hourly until 5PM, with fewer departures on Saturday and Sunday. Several ferries are able to take vehicles over to the island. To arrange, call 459-4284.

San Juan del Sur’s setting makes it the premier coastal town of Nicaragua. Formerly a thriving fishing village, it now caters to tourism in addition to the surviving fishing industry, attracting local and foreign visitors, many deciding to stay beyond their vacation. Spectacular sunsets across the bay make the perfect setting to feast on fresh seafood or have a drink at one of the twenty beachfront restaurants. San Juan’s small community and colorful local scene are easily discovered on foot. Its atmosphere can range from tranquil local one day to busy party another, with visitors including surfers, business people, international backpackers, rich Nicaraguans, aide volunteers, yachtsmen, and students. Visitors can explore, surf and fish with little to no competition in clean, refreshing waters. Around Christmas and Semana Santa, locals flock here by the thousands.

Activities In Town
Some would say San Juan is all about relaxing and enjoying the water. In San Juan and the nearby beaches, swimming, boogie-boarding, surfing, fishing, diving, snorkeling, boating and sailing are the call of the day. Boat trips for these activities are easily arranged; ask at your hotel or a local restaurant. In addition to water sports, learning Spanish with a private teacher is popular. Visitors can hike to the lighthouse via the colorful marina or walk northeast of town to the antennas for views of the surrounding farms and coast. Bicycles are available for rent, enabling visitors to ride to nearby relatively untouched beaches and explore the countryside. At night, visitors kick-back at one of the many bars along the beach, dance at the disco, catch a movie at a bar or perhaps a bonfire on the beach, or do what many locals do, enjoy the night air and people-watch. On weekends, the town picks-up the pace as locals arrive from all over Nicaragua.

Excursions Nearby
Nearby pristine beaches offer tidal pools for exploring, solitude, or body surfing. Accessible by bicycle, local transport or even on foot, the following are the most accessible beaches. Playa Remanso, 6 km south, is a beautiful beach with tidal pools and milder currents. Marsella, Madera and Majahual, about 10 km north by road, are beautiful spots for swimming. Madera is the beach for surfing, arguably the most popular in the country. If lucky, you may see howler monkeys that live nearby. Other surf beaches include Playa El Yanke, 40-minutes south by road, and Popoyo, 2½ hours north, considered one of Nicaragua’s best breaks. To reach Popoyo, go to Rivas and, by bus or truck, take the rough road to Las Salinas. Once there, ask directions to the beach. Many surf beaches are not accessible except by boat. A popular alternative is hiring a boat in San Juan to take you to these secluded destinations. Several beaches offer secluded accommodations for the budget to up-market visitor. For an inland adventure, rent a mountain bike and explore the dirt roads heading south towards Ostional. Rivas, 20-minutes away, presents an opportunity to stock-up on necessities, enjoy the colonial buildings, and visit the Museo de Antropología. At La Flor Wildlife Refuge, 18 km south, you camp on the beach; however, the sea turtles this refuge is famous for are visible only July to January.

Services
Banks are plentiful in nearby Rivas; Internet and Internet phone; library; book exchange; laundry service; beachwear; real estate sales; and rentals of boats, bicycles, surfboards, boogie boards, and tents.

Isla de Ometepe is one of the most striking scenes in Nicaragua – an island emerging from Lake Nicaragua made of two volcanoes. Ometepe is worth the time it takes to get there for its pastoral island charm and the many activities. Adventurers can climb Volcán Maderas topped with cloud forest, lagoon and abundant birds and animals or climb Volcán Concepción, an active volcano. A visit to a banana or coffee plantation can make for an interesting and informative excursion. You can swim in a waterfall or simply lay back and enjoy being surrounded by an enormous freshwater lake. Ometepe managed to escape action from the revolutions but rumors of pirate occupation in the colonial period and ancient indigenous carvings found here add mystery to its history.

Activities
Ometepe has options of tough physical activity, relaxation or in between. Following is a list of the most popular activities.

Moyogalpa: Ferries leave regularly from San Jorge, just outside of Rivas, and land at Moyogalpa. It is the largest village on the island and located on the west side of Concepción. Helpful locals greet you as you disembark, offering useful tourist information and direction to hotels, hospedajes, restaurants, and the museum. Buses depart nearly every hour, going north or south around the island.
Altagracia: Boats from Granada or San Carlos arrive at Altagracia, a small village on the northeast slope of Volcán Concepción. With a few restaurants and hospedajes, some travelers use it as a base for exploration of activities nearby. The town has an archeological museum open 9AM-5PM daily and pre-Columbian petroglyphs can be found near the church. Altagracia is near Playa Santo Domingo and a trailhead for climbing Volcán Concepción is only a few kilometers away. To climb Volcán Maderas, go to Balgüe.
Playa Santo Domingo: The most popular beach, Santo Domingo offers white sand beaches, an expansive outlook across the lake, and lives up to Ometepe’s reputation as the windiest place in Nicaragua. Located at the isthmus that connects the two volcanoes, this area is great for hammock reading, exploring the forest, or horse rides. Ojo Verde is the name of fresh water springs only a 15-minute walk away and located in a banana plantation. Ask for directions at your accommodation. Balgüe and Finca Magdalena are nearby; both take off points for the ascent of Volcán Maderas.
Balgüe and Finca Magdalena: Reachable by bus ride or private vehicle via a dirt and sand road, this area is the closest spot for climbing Volcán Maderas. At the foot of the volcano is Finca Magdalena offering simple rooms in an old farmhouse and a view to remember. The finca is a farming cooperative formed during the Sandinista days and today grows shade coffee. Many visitors come here and enjoy the trails along the base of the volcano, petrogyphs, and panoramic vistas of the lake, island and crops.
San Ramón: On the south side of Maderas, San Ramón is a small, friendly village and is the best location for exploring the Cascada San Ramón. This waterfall is refreshing, set in a spectacular setting, and is approximately 50 meters high. A tourist can visit or stay at Estación Biológica de Ometepe where you can also set off for the waterfall or learn about the station’s research (277-1130). Another option is to stay in Mérida, near Punta El Congo, where visitors can rent horses, kayaks and bikes.
Laguna Charco Verde: At the southern coast of Concepción, Charco Verde is a lovely green lagoon, steeped in myth. There is a beach next to the lagoon and it is a cool place for swimming and seeing wildlife such as monkeys and colorful birds.

Services
There are no banks on the island, but there are in Rivas; same for Internet; vehicle rental in Moyogalpa including 4-wheel drive; and rental of bicycles; boats; kayaks; horses; and guides.

León is the second largest city in Nicaragua and was the capital during colonial times. Traditionally, León has also been the academic center and today it is an energetic city that takes pride in its heritage. It has the largest cathedral in Central America and Nicaragua’s revered Rubén Darío is entombed there. Take time to appreciate the numerous museums, churches, and schools and examine the expressive murals reflecting politics past and present. Enjoy the university buzz of León in a popular café following exploration of this charming old city and its many surrounding attractions.

Activities In Town
Visit the beautiful old churches, taking notice of the architecture, art, memorials, and construction dates often posted. A lion memorial marks where Rubén Darío is entombed in the Catedral de la Asunción, the largest cathedral in Central America located on the east side of central park. On the south side of the cathedral is the Colegio Seminario Tridentino San Ramón, the first college constructed in Central America, founded in 1680. Iglesia de El Calvario, 18th century, is three blocks east down Calle Rubén Darío. It has unique paintings on the facade and unusual red brick bell towers. Also on Calle Rubén Darío, two blocks west of central park, is Iglesia de San Francisco and next door is the Museo de Art (Tuesday through Sunday, 11AM-9PM). Another block west on the same street is Museo Rubén Darío (Monday through Saturday, 9AM-noon, 2PM-5PM and Sunday, 9AM-noon). The museum was previously his home and now houses an exhibition of photos, original manuscripts and other documents, and an interesting representation of Dario’s life and era - though all are in Spanish. Two blocks south is Museo de Tradiciones y Leyendas, across from Iglesia San Sebastión, (Monday through Sunday, 8AM-noon, 2PM-5PM) showcasing traditional folk art representing local legends. West of central park is Museo Insurreccional with two rooms housing memorabilia of the revolution, old books, newspapers and photographs, and folk art creations (no set hours).

Just beyond the northeast corner of central park is a powerful political mural, a chronological representation of events in Nicaragua from the Conquistadors to revolution of 1979. The Galería de Héroes y Mártires (Monday through Friday, 8AM-1PM, 2PM-5, Saturday, 8AM-1PM) shares black and white photos of local revolutionaries. One street west, and then one and half blocks north is the INTUR office, helpful with local and current information. El Convento is the most luxurious and historic hotel in León, worth a tour for its art and beautiful convent setting. Check out the modern paintings of famous persons at the left end of the lobby. One block east of the hotel is Centro Cultural with rooms displaying contemporary art from León. Iglesia San Juan Bautista de Subtiava is located one block from Mercado Subtiava, which is 1 km west of central park and is where you catch buses to Poneloya. This church, the oldest still standing in León, has a striking wood-carved sun on the ceiling.

Venture to take Spanish lessons from one of the plethora of schools in León. Through the school, visitors can arrange a ‘home-stay,’ which is staying with a local family – perhaps the best way to learn about and experience Nicaragua.

Excursions Nearby
For more information on the volcanoes and protected areas, see those sections.
North: Chinandega is 37 km north and is the center of the region producing sugar cane, rice, wheat, fishing and cattle and has a population of 120,000. A pleasant town starting to develop a tourist infrastructure, it has the most revered religious icon in the country believed to be the first icon brought to Nicaragua in 1532. Chichigalpa is 15 km south of Chinandega and is the home of the Flor de Caña distillery and the sugar refinery, called Ingenio San Antonio. You may be able to tour Flor de Caña by calling Luis Alberto Chamorro at 343-2481 or 2425. For a tour of the sugar factory, the largest in the country, call Joaquin Zavala or Vilma Salgado at 343-2330, open November through May. The influential Pellas family owns lots of the country’s rum and beer, the largest sugar production, and more. On the Honduran border on the Fonseca Gulf is Volcán Cosigüina known for amazing views.
South: Volcán Cerro Negro is the most active and youngest volcano in the country and can be easily climbed. León Viejo is about 31 km from León and offers minimal exposure of the foundation from the original city covered over by a volcanic explosion in 1610. The views from here of Lake Managua and Momotombo are spectacular and make for a wonderful picnic site. Momotombo, another famous volcano landmark, is becoming increasingly popular for tourist excursions including overnight camping trips.
West: Poneloya and Las Peñitas, only 40 minutes from León, are beautiful, clean beaches with gray sand and little shade. Restaurants and accommodations provide respite from the sun, cool drinks, and fresh seafood. Also bordering the beaches are the simple homes of locals and holiday houses of wealthy. Notice that locals tend to swim in the inlets to avoid the strong currents that can be dangerous. At the end of Las Peñitas is Reserva Natural Isla Juan Venado protecting the turtle nesting site and rich mangrove eco-system. Early morning and late afternoon are the best times to see animal life.
East: Estelí (for more information see Matagalpa section) is the center of the tobacco industry of Nicaragua. On the road to Estelí in San Jacinto are Los Hervideros, which are holes of boiling mud percolating up through the earth, the result of water and hot magma combining. It is a unique place to witness intense volcanic activity up close. The ground is fragile in places and therefore potentially dangerous. There are plenty of charming children eager to guide you around and wanting a small tip.

Services
Banks; Internet and Internet phone; bookstore with books in English; travel agents; tour companies; kayaks and bicycles for rent.

Transportation
The central bus station is 1 km northeast of central park on 6a Calle NE.
Granada: Private bus leaves León at 8:30AM; leaves Granada at 11AM daily, $15 one way, (0611-8784)
Chinandega: Departures every 30 minutes, 4:30AM to 6PM, all stop in Chichigalpa.
San Isidro: Departures every 30 minutes, you can reach Los Hervideros of San Jacinto via this route. From San Isidro buses depart every 30 minutes for Estelí and Matagalpa.
Poneloya and Las Peñitas: Departures every 2 hours from Mercado Subtiava, 6AM to 5PM, 45-minute trip, more buses run on weekends. Taxis to the beaches run $8-12 one way.
Managua: two routes - via La Paz Centro, departures every 20-30 minutes, 4:30AM to 6:30PM, and Expresos depart 6AM, 7:45AM, and 3:30PM, - via Puerto Sandino, every 20 minutes, 4:30AM to 6:30PM.
From La Paz Centro: to reach León Viejo and Momotombo Volcano - departures 7AM, 8AM, 10AM, and 1PM, returns at 11AM and 2PM only.
Estelí: Departures 5:25AM and 3:10PM with a stop in San Isidro.
Matagalpa: Departures 4:30AM and 2:45PM with a stop in San Isidro.
Buses depart every 30 minutes for Estelí and Matagalpa from San Isidro.

Craving cooler weather, head for Matagalpa, a city surrounded by a beautiful panorama of mountains. Driving through this region, visitors can appreciate the diversity of Nicaragua’s landscape. This region produces most of Nicaragua’s premium coffee, grown above 1,000 meters. Matagalpa is also the birthplace of two founders of the FSLN political movement who are memorialized here. Despite the turbulent history from the revolution and following Contra war, and more recent struggles due to the coffee crisis, Matagalpa is a lively and thriving city offering a different flavor than the hotter lowlands.

Activities In Town
The city radiates from two nice parks, Parque Rubén Darío to the south and Parque Morazán to the north, where a large cathedral sits on a square full of activity. The town can easily be explored on foot and two main streets, interesting for window-shopping and people watching, connect the parks making navigation easy. Matagalpa has a surprising amount of atmospheric restaurants and an active nightlife where you can find live music and busy dance floors. The INTUR office is helpful with tourist information; however, at this time most is in Spanish. Casa Museo Carlos Fonseca has an exhibit on its namesake. Fonseca founded the Frente Sandinista de Liberación Nacional (FSLN) political movement in 1961 along with Tomás Borge – the movement that took down the Somoza dictatorship. After leading the party for 15 years, Fonseca was assassinated in 1976.

This area is known for making cerámica Negra, black pottery. Visitors can see artists at work at the Tradicional Cerámica Negra workshop, one and half blocks east of the cathedral just past Enitel, easily spotted by the towers. Many Europeans settled in this area more than a century ago; visitors may notice the influence. The foreign people’s cemetery can provide an interesting glimpse of Matagalpa’s unique history. Non-Catholic Nicaraguans were also buried here. A museum on coffee is anticipated to open soon.

Excursions Nearby
Central Highlands Area
The road north to Matagalpa and on to Jinotega is one of the most scenic highways in Nicaragua. In addition to the lush mountain scenery, you’ll see people selling iguanas, exotic birds, plants and colorful vegetables. Young boys may be filling potholes hoping for a córdoba in appreciation of their efforts.

If driving, consider getting a Rutas Turísticas de Matagalpa brochure from the INTUR office. Written simply in Spanish, this brochure gives a recommended tourist route and information between Carretera Managua and Matagalpa and Ruta Moyoa and Chagüitillo to Jinotega.

12 km north of town on the road to Jinotega is Selva Negra, a coffee plantation and resort with private forest reserve, virgin mountain forest and hiking trails, founded by German immigrants in the 1880’s. The cottages and restaurant are distinctly German. Selva Negra, ‘black forest’ in Spanish, is worth a visit and the 25 córdobas entrance fee is redeemable with coffee and cake. Visitors can see coffee harvesting in action November to February.

Visit one of the coffee beneficios, processing plants, south of town for a view of coffee being de-husked, sorted and packaged. At beneficio Café Esperanza, visitors may witness the ‘cupper’ at work, a professional coffee taster similar to that of a wine sommelier.

Jinotega, nicknamed ‘the misty city,’ is 33 km north of Matagalpa via a scenic mountain road worth the trip for the refreshing views. This pleasant town has a pretty parque central and a nice INTUR office with displays of local history, art, archeological finds and local cerámica negra pottery for sale. Northeast of Jinotega is the large picturesque Apanás Lake, good for walking and enjoying the outdoors. INTUR can provide information and directions.

Less than two hours by bus, Estelí is a medium size city bordering the Interamericana Hwy, Central America’s busy transit route. Today, it is the center of tobacco growth and home to some of the country’s first Spanish schools offering students a pleasant place to learn. Estelí has a Galería de Héroes and Mártires, telling the stories of men and women who fought in the revolution, and a good craft store near central park called Artesanías La Esquina, an excellent place for buying gifts. One kilometer outside Estelí is a nice waterfall called Salto Estanzuela. To the east of Estelí is the Miraflor Nature Reserve. Within the park is the visitor receptive cooperative Unión de Cooperativas Agropecuarias de Miraflor (713-2971).

Services

Banks; Internet and Internet phone; clothing stores; and supermarkets.
INTUR Tourist Offices Matagalpa 612-7060, Jinotega 632-4552, Estelí 713-6799

Transportation

Managua: Departures every 30 minutes, 3:30AM to 6PM, 2 hour and 45 minute trip.
Manauga Expresos: Departures every hour, 5:20AM to 3:20PM and 4:50PM the last.
Estelí: Departures every 30 minutes, 5:15AM to 6:15PM, 1 hour and 45 minute trip.
Jinotega: Departures every 30 minutes, 5AM to 7PM, 1 hour and 30 minute trip.
León Expresos: Departures 6AM and 3PM.
Masaya: Departures 2PM and 3:30PM.

Nicaraguan Biodiversity

Central America has 0.5% of the world’s land mass but 10% of the world’s biological diversity.
Nicaragua presents a great opportunity to appreciate this diversity with approximately 12,000 plant and 1,400 animal species currently recorded.

The country is comprised of three distinct geographic regions: Pacific, Central and Caribbean. The Pacific region is the most densely populated with remaining natural areas primarily confined to forests on the higher slopes of volcanoes, coastal mangroves, and coastal ecosystems including prominent turtle nesting grounds. The Central Highlands have cloud and dry forests, while the Caribbean has lowland tropical rainforest.

Nicaragua has the longest river system, the two largest freshwater lakes and the richest volcanic soils in Central America. The tropical rain forests of the Caribbean are the largest north of the Amazon. The country supports abundant wildlife including toucans, ocelots, warthogs, pumas, jaguars, sloths, spider and howler monkeys, hummingbirds, woodpeckers, hawks, quetzals, boas, anacondas, crocodiles, manatees, caymans and deer. Lake Nicaragua supports unusual fish, including the world’s only freshwater sharks.

National Parks and Conservation

Before the eighties, Nicaragua had neither firm national conservation objectives nor the infrastructure to support them. Although the first protected area was established by decree in 1958 and the first national park was legally established in 1971, these areas lacked support in terms of management or protection.

During the early eighties, the Nicaraguan Institute of Natural Resources and the Environment (IRENA) was created. During their inaugural year, IRENA, now called MARENA, created the National Parks Service to manage protected areas. In 1987, the first constitution in the country’s history included provisions for the rational use and protection of the environment. During the 1980s, 17 protected areas were legislated.

It has only been since 1990 and the end of the war that protected areas received planning and support. Nicaragua, in 2002, has 76 protected areas encompassing almost 18% of its territory.

Enthusiastically embracing the long-term benefits of protecting large tracts of natural resources, Nicaragua’s difficulty lies in the complicated and costly task of managing these areas. The mining and logging industries exacerbate this challenge. Both create income at the expense of conservation efforts. Recent reports suggest that the Nicaraguan rainforest is in greater danger than the Amazon’s. Human habitation and poaching are additional problems for nearly 80% of protected areas.

As visitors, one of our biggest contributions can simply be to visit, appreciate and support the protection of Nicaragua’s natural assets. Visitors can make the trek on their own or arrange to go with a tour company or local guide.

PROTECTED AREAS POPULAR FOR VISITING

Mombacho Natural Reserve:

Mombacho’s majestic peak overlooking Granada has two craters and is covered in dense cloud forest. This extinguished volcano is the first area to be managed by a private not-for-profit organization, Fundación Cocibolca. In good weather, tourists have fantastic views of Granada, Las Isletas, Laguna de Apoyo and Lake Nicaragua. There are scenic walks on well-built trails ranging from a few minutes to several hours and from easy to challenging due to climbing of steps. It is possible to see over 50 different species of mammal, 174 types of birds and 750 different varieties of flora. One trail passes fumarolic vents where steam and gases escaping the Earth’s depths can be witnessed. Knowledgeable guide services are available upon arrival at the Biological Station. This center educates and entertains with exhibits and videos. A light lunch or snack may be had here as well. The weather on top is cool, fresh and sometimes wet; a light jacket for rain and wind is essential.

Easily reached on the road between Granada and Rivas, there is a Mombacho sign from which you drive or walk 2 ½ km to the entrance. From there it is necessary to take the fun tourist truck up the steep slope through the coffee plantations. The fee for foreigners is 115 córdobas/adults and 50 córdobas/kids for entry and transportation. The trucks leave at 8:30AM, 10, 1PM and 3PM. Open Tuesdayand Wednesday to groups of 10 & more, Thursday to Sunday for the general public.
There is a new “Walk around the Crater-Sendero del Puma.” It is about 4 km and costs $10 with a guide. Information
(552-5858).

Masaya National Park

Nicaragua’s first national park, just north of Masaya, is predominantly a volcanic landscape; however, the main attraction is its active craters. In spite of the toxic smoke from Santiago Crater, an endemic species of green parakeets nest in the crater walls, producing one of many unique ecological experiences the park has to offer. Here, the landscape resembles something from a Paleolithic era; simple life forms, such as lichens and mosses, are just beginning to renew the forest ecosystems. There are numerous trails around the park that offer spectacular views. Be sure to take the 15-30 minute hike up to the left of the craters for terrific views toward the lake and Mombacho. The park’s entrance is on the Granada-Managua highway at the 20 km point. It is open all week 9AM to 4:45PM and a 50 córdoba entrance fee is payable for foreigners. From the entrance, there is a 5 km shadeless road that runs up to the dry and barren crater’s edge. There is an interesting visitor’s center with numerous displays of volcanic geology.

Indio-Maíz Biological Reserve

Indio-Maíz is the largest wildlife reserve in Nicaragua. It covers 264,000 hectares and includes the country’s largest pristine rainforest. The rainforest is the wettest area in the country and supports amazing biodiversity. It is possible to see manatees, monkeys, jaguars, turtles and countless species of birds. Exciting boat rides leave from San Carlos a couple times a week heading east down the Río San Juan toward San Juan del Norte and the reserve. In conjunction to visiting the reserve, other points of interest along the Río San Juan include El Castillo and Refugio Bartola, at the western tip of the reserve. This trip is a fascinating adventure through one of the wettest parts of Nicaragua. Be prepared for rain and mosquitoes.

Maderas Volcano Nature Reserve

An extinguished volcano on Ometepe Island, Maderas features thick cloud forests, waterfalls, a beautiful crater lagoon and amazing panoramic views. The cloud forest may afford opportunities to observe monkeys, armadillo, opossum, anteaters, deer, bats and a veritable smorgasbord of amazing orchids and ferns. The main Maderas Reserve attraction is climbing the volcano. This excursion takes roughly eight hours and rewards the hiker with the beautiful sights described above.

La Flor Wildlife Refuge

Located 18 km south of San Juan del Sur, this is a spectacular deserted pacific beach where the Paslama, Olive Ridley and Tora sea turtles arrive by the thousands to lay their eggs between July and January each year. The greatest concentrations of arrivals take place about eight to ten times a year roughly following lunar patterns. It is possible to camp at La Flor for a fee, but tourists must adhere to the refuge’s directions and heed park ranger advice about respecting the turtles. The reserve has no amenities. La Flor is reached by taking the coastal dirt road south from San Juan del Sur. The entrance fee is 150 córdobas. To find out the most likely times to see the largest concentrations of turtles, call the ranger at 458-2514 or e-mail Fundación Cocibolca at fcdeje@ibw.com.ni. Organized tours leave from San Juan del Sur or tourists may drive themselves or take a local bus.

Miraflor Natural Reserve

This 5,600 hectare reserve is at a higher altitude than other protected areas and offers tropical savannahs, dry forests, cloud forests and the beautiful lagoon from which its name is derived. Wildlife includes numerous bird species including hummingbirds, toucans and the rare quetzal. The jungle here is lush with tall moss-laden oaks, orchids and begonias and worth the 18 km trip north from Estelí on the road towards Yali. A tour may be organized through operators in Estelí or Managua. Accommodation with resident communities is available as part of the program to promote eco-tourism and sustainable use of this protected area. Check with the Estelí tourist office for arrangements (713-6799).

Tisey / La Estanzuela Nature Reserve

Just south of Estelí, the reserve has Salto de la Estanzuela, a charming 30-meter waterfall. Visitors may swim in the pool beneath cascading waters. Larger during the wet season, this area is reached by turning west off the main road a kilometer south of town. The turn-off is located near the hospital and is easy to miss; however, locals will gladly provide directions to the waterfall. You can drive or take a bus to the turn off and then walk or hitch a ride the 5 km to the entrance. There is no entrance fee but local children hoping to make a few córdobas will want to act as guides.

Juan Venado Island Natural Reserve

Located at the southern end of the Poneloya and Las Peñitas beaches near León, Juan Venado is a barrier island. Its river system at times is only separated from the sea by less than a hundred meters. Visitors may take a lush mangrove boat ride through the estuaries and stop to visit turtle nesting areas when in season. The nesting may be watched at night during season. For those who wish to see iguanas, caimans, crabs or the beautiful bird species, it is best to organize a trip close to sunrise or sunset. It is cooler and the wildlife more active. The departure point at the southern end of Las Peñitas is reached via buses that depart hourly for the beaches from the west end of León, Mercado Felix, also called Subtiava. Once there, local businesses will direct visitors to the park ranger. A short, one and a half-hour trip may be arranged for $20 US dollars, or a five-hour trip for between $50 and $60. There are both accommodations and restaurants at this pretty fishing village.

Chocoyero-El Brujo Waterfall and Nature Reserve

The Chocoyero-El Brujo reserve is small but it is an important watershed that provides potable water to thousands. It is also an important tourist attraction. Every year, approximately 10,000 people visit Chocoyero-El Brujo and the two crashing waterfalls that give the reserve its name. Located 23 km south of Managua, the Chocoyero-El Brujo Nature Reserve is a refreshing getaway from Managua. From Managua heading south to Masaya turn west after 14 km heading toward Ticuantepe and La Concepción. At 21 ½ km there will be a dirt road to take you to the entrance.

Bosawás Biosphere Reserve

Bosawás occupies 730,000 hectares covering approximately 14% of Nicaragua’s territory. It is the largest tract of tropical, humid forest in Central America and is located in the northeastern Caribbean region bordering Honduras. This sparsely populated area is the traditional homeland of the Miskito people with indigenous communities still living there. Although this area is difficult to access and tour, it can be worth the trouble. Visitors can reach this area by flying to Puerto Cabezas on the coast or Bonanza in the heart of the R.A.A.N. department. Overland journey via the dirt road to Puerto Cabezas is another option. At Rosita, turn north to reach Bonanza from where it is possible to make day trips into the forest.

Los Gatuzos Wildlife Refuge

Located on the stretch of land between Lake Nicaragua, Río San Juan and the Costa Rican border, this park covers 43,000 hectares. The wetland and rainforest here are home to a large variety of migratory birds and mammal species, many of which are in danger of extinction. Part of this area may be observed from the river crossing the border between San Carlos and Los Chiles in Costa Rica. For more detailed viewng, a guide will need to be arranged from San Carlos.

Zapateras Archipielago National Park

This national park, comprised of 13 islands, is host to dry tropical forests, savannahs and swamps and provides a home for a rich variety of birds. It is also a notable archeological site. Petroglyphs remain on Isla El Muerto and are amongst the oldest examples of known pre-Columbian art in Nicaragua. You can also find fine examples in the Convento de San Francisco museum in Granada. The islands are not easily accessed and it is best to go with someone who knows where the petroglyphs are. Not far from Granada, it takes approximately two hours by boat. A tour or hired boat may be arranged from Puerto Asese, where boats also depart for Las Isletas.

Nicaragua’s history and culture have been influenced and shaped by life in a volcanic region. The rich soil created by volcanic activity has proven an ideal growing medium for some of the country’s most lucrative crops. The three largest cities in the country were built in the shadows of volcanoes, which were once believed to be nature’s protectors.

Nicaragua has nine active volcanoes, numerous dormant ones and many volcanic structures. The magnificent views from the summits of these volcanoes, as well as the presence of hot springs, boiling mud holes and a variety of plant life, create numerous
rewarding excursions. Varying in degrees of accessibility and level of climbing difficulty, Volcanic Nicaragua offers visitors
everything from leisurely outings to challenging hikes.

Following Nicaragua’s most prominent volcano range, Maribios, we work our way south from Honduras until we reach the volcanoes of Ometepe Island. Passing Chinandega south to Managua, the range consists of many younger volcanoes superimposed over old. Of the many peaks, the most prominent are San Cristóbal, Telica, Cerro Negro and, on the shores of Lake Managua, the famous Momotombo. Highways from Chinandega to León, across to Estelí, or down to Managua offer ample vantage points for views of and access to this range.

The Volcán Cosigüina Nature Reserve is situated in the northwestern corner of Nicaragua and stands sentinel over the Fonseca gulf. Climbing paths on Cosigüina are not well marked but reward your efforts with a fantastic view of the pacific coast. Worth the extra effort if time permits, the last 20 km heading along the coast from Chinandega is unpaved, a 4×4 vehicle is recommended. From the summit, on a clear day, you can see El Salvador and Honduras.

At 1745 meters, Volcán San Cristóbal, also known as El Viejo, is the tallest volcano in Nicaragua and is relatively young compared to its neighbors. William Dampier, a famous pirate and explorer, reported a huge eruption in 1685 and explosive activity was recorded throughout the 16th and 17th centuries. The last eruption, in 1987, was relatively small and today it emits gas and sometimes showers ash on the nearby city of Chinandega.

There are several routes to the top of San Cristóbal, but perhaps the best option is to take the road to neighboring Casita. About 20 minutes north of León, on the highway between Chinandega and León take the 4×4 road from Posoltega to Finca Bella Vista, a coffee processing plant. At the Finca, with wonderful views of the Pacific, you can ask for directions to the trail leading to the top of Casita. This trail will take you past fumarolic activity. Once you reach the top of Casita, there is another 600-meter climb up the slopes of San Cristóbal. The León tourist office can provide additional information at 311-3682.

Volcán Telica (1061 meters) rises over the town of Telica and is a few kilometers south of San Cristóbal. A 700-meter wide double crater, which truncates the steep slopes of Telica, is the source of recent eruptions. The vigor of Telica’s fumarolic activity can be witnessed close-up at the boiling mud holes of Hervideros de San Jacinto, southeast of Telica. This area is frequented by tourists and consequently attracts many local children who offer their services as guides. Remember to use caution on this trip-the ground is fragile in places and potentially dangerous. Take the road to San Isidro and Estelí, which passes between Cerro Negro and Telica, to the town of San Jacinto. The mud holes are easily located once you reach town. San Jacinto can also be reached by taking the bus that runs between León and San Isidro, departing every 30 minutes in each direction until nightfall.

In 1850, an eruption in the Las Pilas complex created Cerro Negro (725 meters), which is the youngest volcano in the Western Hemisphere. Cerro Negro is the most violently active volcano in Nicaragua and has put on spectacular pyrotechnic displays at regular intervals over the years, growing 400 meters since its birth. Prior to its last eruption in 1999, it experienced major eruptions nearly every twenty years. Stark, black gravel slopes, solidified lava flows and massive black sand dunes give Cerro Negro the appearance of a lunar landscape. This volcano is where the Frenchman Eric Barone set the world mountain biking speed record in May 2002, clocking 172 kph. And he’s not only fast - he’s lucky. Although he crashed at the bottom of the crater, destroying his bike, he walked away with only a few bruises.

To reach the less strenuous route up Cerro Negro, take the León-Managua highway, stopping at La Paz Centro, and then taking the road to La Ceiba. Ask for directions to the short 4×4 road that takes you close to the summit. From here, it is a relatively easy climb up the gravel slopes.

The Momotombo volcano (1258 meters) is one of Nicaragua’s most famous landmarks and is a frequent reference in Rubén Darío’s poetry. It towers over Lake Nicaragua and its younger brother, Momotombito (389 meters) sits just offshore in the lake. Views of both volcanoes can be enjoyed from lookouts along the new highway to León. Momotombo is still active and has, through the geothermal energy station at its base, been used as an energy source for the past 30 years. Momotombo began growing about 4,500 years ago and, in 1625, destroyed the former capital of León.

To reach Momotombo, turn at La Paz Centro from the León-Managua highway, taking the road toward the geothermal plant. Near the plant, there are numerous trails that lead up the slopes. Ask for directions or find a local guide at the small nearby village of Puerto Momotombo. Be prepared for a strenuous three-four hour climb. Tour companies out of Managua and León organize day tours and overnight camping trips that include the climb and a visit to the idyllic clear hot springs at a nearby finca.

Volcano Masaya (600 meters), just south of Managua, is Nicaragua’s first national park and one of the most easily accessed volcanoes in Nicaragua. It has been rumoured that indigenous groups of long ago threw virgins into the crater to appease the gods. In 4,550 BC, Masaya experienced one of the largest volcanic eruptions in history. It is now one of the most strongly degassing volcanoes in the world, with sustained output of thousands of tons of sulfuric gas per day. It has three exposed craters and a lagoon at its base. The visitors center offers interesting displays and public bathrooms.

The Apoyo volcano is an extinct crater dating back 23,000 years. Today, the crater holds a marvelous dark blue lagoon, 7 km wide, sitting a few hundred meters below the crater lip. It is Nicaragua’s largest crater lake and reaches depths of up to two hundred meters. The views across Laguna de Apoyo toward Granada and Lake Nicaragua make it a popular destination and a visitor can enjoy this scenery from one of the many restaurants situated on the crater lip. Half an hour from Granada, drive northwest to Masaya and at Masaya turn south, then turn left in to the small town of Catarina. Apoyo is reached from here by driving straight through the small town till you reach the mirador (look out). There are also frequent buses, which make this an easy half-day excursion. Visitors can drive down into the crater and swim in the 85° F water. The access road is off the highway between Granada and Masaya.

Mombacho (1345 meters) stands sentinel over Granada. This volcanic reserve has exceptional walking trails, a biological station, and is home to a tremendous cloud forest. The last reported volcanic activity was in 1570, when a debris avalanche destroyed a village on the south side of the volcano. An eruption thousands of years before this created nearly 360 islands (Las Isletas) near Granada in Lake Nicaragua. These tiny islands make popular boating destinations for tourists and locals. The views from the top of Mombacho are magnificent and you can find fumarolic vents just off the paths where you will see steam and gases, and maybe monkeys, rising through the thick vegetation.

Volcanoes Concepción (1610 meters) and Maderas (1394 meters) form the beautiful island of Ometepe with a thin isthmus joining the two volcanic landmasses. Concepción’s barren summit is evidence of its active state but it still retains a perfectly conical shape and is considered the best example of the formation in the Americas. Although it has frequently produced debris flows in the past, its most recent activity has been limited to the occasional ash shower. The climb up Maderas rewards the hiker with a wonderful, thick cloud forest that is home to numerous species of wildlife, including howler monkeys. At the summit, you can enjoy a swim in the serene and private lagoon contained within the crater. Tour operators in Managua and on the arrival dock at Moyogalpa can help you if you prefer not to go solo.

Moyogalpa on Ometepe can be reached from San Jorge dock, just outside Rivas on the mainland, where hour-long boat rides depart regularly. The climb on Concepción often begins from Altagracia, where you will be able to find local guides. From here, you can walk or drive to the small town of La Sabana, at which point you will need to ask directions for the trail up the volcano. This hike takes nine to ten hours and requires an excellent level of fitness.

In order to climb Maderas, you need to depart from Finca Magdelana. From Altagracia, you can drive or take a bus to Balgüe, from which you walk 20 minutes to reach the Finca. You can spend the night here and local guides are available. This climb is also quite strenuous and is an exceptionally muddy seven-eight hour trip.

Because many of these volcanoes are in remote destinations, please use reasonable travel safety precautions. You should check with local tourist offices for current volcanic activity, road conditions and to re-confirm directions before you depart. Allow plenty of time for your hike, carry water, and use sunscreen. On longer trips, be sure to let someone know your estimated time of return.