León Nicaragua

el-calvario.jpgLeón is the second largest city in Nicaragua and was the capital during colonial times. Traditionally, León has also been the academic center and today it is an energetic city that takes pride in its heritage. It has the largest cathedral in Central America and Nicaragua’s revered Rubén Darío is entombed there. Take time to appreciate the numerous museums, churches, and schools and examine the expressive murals reflecting politics past and present. Enjoy the university buzz of León in a popular café following exploration of this charming old city and its many surrounding attractions.

Activities In Town
Visit the beautiful old churches, taking notice of the architecture, art, memorials, and construction dates often posted. A lion memorial marks where Rubén Darío is entombed in the Catedral de la Asunción, the largest cathedral in Central America located on the east side of central park. On the south side of the cathedral is the Colegio Seminario Tridentino San Ramón, the first college constructed in Central America, founded in 1680. Iglesia de El Calvario, 18th century, is three blocks east down Calle Rubén Darío. It has unique paintings on the facade and unusual red brick bell towers. Also on Calle Rubén Darío, two blocks west of central park, is Iglesia de San Francisco and next door is the Museo de Art (Tuesday through Sunday, 11AM-9PM). Another block west on the same street is Museo Rubén Darío (Monday through Saturday, 9AM-noon, 2PM-5PM and Sunday, 9AM-noon). The museum was previously his home and now houses an exhibition of photos, original manuscripts and other documents, and an interesting representation of Dario’s life and era - though all are in Spanish. Two blocks south is Museo de Tradiciones y Leyendas, across from Iglesia San Sebastión, (Monday through Sunday, 8AM-noon, 2PM-5PM) showcasing traditional folk art representing local legends. West of central park is Museo Insurreccional with two rooms housing memorabilia of the revolution, old books, newspapers and photographs, and folk art creations (no set hours).

Just beyond the northeast corner of central park is a powerful political mural, a chronological representation of events in Nicaragua from the Conquistadors to revolution of 1979. The Galería de Héroes y Mártires (Monday through Friday, 8AM-1PM, 2PM-5, Saturday, 8AM-1PM) shares black and white photos of local revolutionaries. One street west, and then one and half blocks north is the INTUR office, helpful with local and current information. El Convento is the most luxurious and historic hotel in León, worth a tour for its art and beautiful convent setting. Check out the modern paintings of famous persons at the left end of the lobby. One block east of the hotel is Centro Cultural with rooms displaying contemporary art from León. Iglesia San Juan Bautista de Subtiava is located one block from Mercado Subtiava, which is 1 km west of central park and is where you catch buses to Poneloya. This church, the oldest still standing in León, has a striking wood-carved sun on the ceiling.

Venture to take Spanish lessons from one of the plethora of schools in León. Through the school, visitors can arrange a ‘home-stay,’ which is staying with a local family – perhaps the best way to learn about and experience Nicaragua.

Excursions Nearby
For more information on the volcanoes and protected areas, see those sections.
North: Chinandega is 37 km north and is the center of the region producing sugar cane, rice, wheat, fishing and cattle and has a population of 120,000. A pleasant town starting to develop a tourist infrastructure, it has the most revered religious icon in the country believed to be the first icon brought to Nicaragua in 1532. Chichigalpa is 15 km south of Chinandega and is the home of the Flor de Caña distillery and the sugar refinery, called Ingenio San Antonio. You may be able to tour Flor de Caña by calling Luis Alberto Chamorro at 343-2481 or 2425. For a tour of the sugar factory, the largest in the country, call Joaquin Zavala or Vilma Salgado at 343-2330, open November through May. The influential Pellas family owns lots of the country’s rum and beer, the largest sugar production, and more. On the Honduran border on the Fonseca Gulf is Volcán Cosigüina known for amazing views.
South: Volcán Cerro Negro is the most active and youngest volcano in the country and can be easily climbed. León Viejo is about 31 km from León and offers minimal exposure of the foundation from the original city covered over by a volcanic explosion in 1610. The views from here of Lake Managua and Momotombo are spectacular and make for a wonderful picnic site. Momotombo, another famous volcano landmark, is becoming increasingly popular for tourist excursions including overnight camping trips.
West: Poneloya and Las Peñitas, only 40 minutes from León, are beautiful, clean beaches with gray sand and little shade. Restaurants and accommodations provide respite from the sun, cool drinks, and fresh seafood. Also bordering the beaches are the simple homes of locals and holiday houses of wealthy. Notice that locals tend to swim in the inlets to avoid the strong currents that can be dangerous. At the end of Las Peñitas is Reserva Natural Isla Juan Venado protecting the turtle nesting site and rich mangrove eco-system. Early morning and late afternoon are the best times to see animal life.
East: Estelí (for more information see Matagalpa section) is the center of the tobacco industry of Nicaragua. On the road to Estelí in San Jacinto are Los Hervideros, which are holes of boiling mud percolating up through the earth, the result of water and hot magma combining. It is a unique place to witness intense volcanic activity up close. The ground is fragile in places and therefore potentially dangerous. There are plenty of charming children eager to guide you around and wanting a small tip.

Services
Banks; Internet and Internet phone; bookstore with books in English; travel agents; tour companies; kayaks and bicycles for rent.

Transportation
The central bus station is 1 km northeast of central park on 6a Calle NE.
Granada: Private bus leaves León at 8:30AM; leaves Granada at 11AM daily, $15 one way, (0611-8784)
Chinandega: Departures every 30 minutes, 4:30AM to 6PM, all stop in Chichigalpa.
San Isidro: Departures every 30 minutes, you can reach Los Hervideros of San Jacinto via this route. From San Isidro buses depart every 30 minutes for Estelí and Matagalpa.
Poneloya and Las Peñitas: Departures every 2 hours from Mercado Subtiava, 6AM to 5PM, 45-minute trip, more buses run on weekends. Taxis to the beaches run $8-12 one way.
Managua: two routes - via La Paz Centro, departures every 20-30 minutes, 4:30AM to 6:30PM, and Expresos depart 6AM, 7:45AM, and 3:30PM, - via Puerto Sandino, every 20 minutes, 4:30AM to 6:30PM.
From La Paz Centro: to reach León Viejo and Momotombo Volcano - departures 7AM, 8AM, 10AM, and 1PM, returns at 11AM and 2PM only.
Estelí: Departures 5:25AM and 3:10PM with a stop in San Isidro.
Matagalpa: Departures 4:30AM and 2:45PM with a stop in San Isidro.
Buses depart every 30 minutes for Estelí and Matagalpa from San Isidro.

 

Explore Waves magazine: Destination Guide
Tags: cerro negro, churches, Cosigüina, Estelí, Flor de Caña, folk art, legends, Leon, Los Hervideros, momotombo, museums, Poneloya, Rubén Darío, spanish classes

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