by Chris Mason
Nicaragua is fast becoming known as a fresh and relatively un-traveled tourist destination. Some even go as far as calling it the “new Costa Rica.” With giant smoldering volcanoes and vast lakes speckling the landscape, it sometimes feels more like being in a lost world.
Nicaragua is definitely not lost, though it is overlooked by the majority of world travelers. This was not without reason since over the last fifty years the country and its people have suffered many hardships such as natural disasters and civil wars, which made it difficult and dangerous to travel here. Things are better now, with relative political stability and no hurricanes on the horizon. It’s not hard to understand why everyone here enjoys hanging out in hammocks and relaxing. People are enjoying a peaceful life they deserve. The quiet after the storm.
All of Central America is beautiful, but Nicaragua seems to have that special something. Everyday, as I watch the golden pink sun sink into the horizon, I realize this.
With a little time and money, one can quite easily explore Nicaragua. Whether it’s making the trek on a crowded bus older than you while a fruit seller rests her large, sweaty posterior on your shoulder for two hours or in an air-conditioned rental car that looks like flashing casino lights to an inquisitive policeman, it’s bound to be an adventure.
In the bustling markets, most of the locals already know the main gringo destinations. The moment your dusty backpack hits the hot tar, someone will probably be shouting “San Juan!” or “Granada!” and start dragging your bag onto another vehicle of questionable road worthiness.
Middle Earth in Central America?
This said, there is definitely an abundance of roads less traveled in Nicaragua, whether you are looking for epic surf, pristine lagoons, or quiet mountain getaways. For me normally, it’s epic surf that I want, but I won’t say no to a cloud forest here or there. Take Isla de Ometepe for example. It is quite well known, but how can you fault that. Where else can you hike through untouched cloud-level rainforest and get to a lake in a volcano on an island in a lake? In the misty crater, it feels like you have just made it to a secret getaway in the Lord of the Rings, and any second Frodo and Gandalf will stroll by chatting, while Golum brings up the rear chewing on a slimy fish.
The volcano crater lagoon, Laguna de Apoyo, is another place to experience the wonders of swimming in a volcano. There, the water is so clear you hardly need goggles and the water feels like it’s been infused with some secret, life-giving potion.
I like to think I specialize on beaches, being on them, that is. This is a good thing when in Nicaragua. There is a plethora of beaches to choose from here, whether you want the Caribbean feel of the Corn Islands or the relaxed atmosphere of the popular town of San Juan del Sur. When looking for waves in Nicaragua, one is spoilt for choice. With well known un-surfed breaks along the entire coastline, all you have to do is to go out and find them.
Popoyo is always a good bet, with a range of accommodation from rusty to rustic and even luxurious. The beach is long and spotted with good reefs that produce super fun waves. It is already frequented by surfers and offers a little more thrill factor than the more intermediate waves of Maderas. With a little searching you’ll find that a lot of the beach towns in the middle of the coastline can offer up some good experiences. The small generally quiet town of La Boquita has good fish restaurants and the occasional barrel for those hungry for a meal and a wave. It can get crowded over the weekends as Nicaraguans arrive for some downtime.
Like everywhere, be wary of sketchy looking locals trying to proposition you. Traveling around Nicaragua is generally safe, but the international travel rules should always be adhered to: don’t have a fat wallet hanging out your back pocket, don’t pass out drunk on a random street at night (or day), and if some unruly chap is bothering you, just say “No me molesta!” in a stern voice.
If you like to spice your travel experience with a dab of local culture while ogling giant Red Snapper or some no longer dangerous sharks, the fishing towns are great. One such place is Masachapa at the end of the highway to Montelimar, right next to the holiday resort of the same name. It is a colorful town that smells of sea air and fresh fish where you can pretty much buy anything seafood related that you could wish for.
I was there the other day, hassling my local dealer for twenty pounds of the good stuff, Red Snapper or pargo rojo, of course. I saw a couple of guys hovering around a cart packed with sharks. One guy was straining to pull it up the hill, while two of his friends were at his side lending a helping word. But the happiest of the bunch was the last guy, seated atop the pile of big grey fish, smiling ear to ear and winking at passersby as he hitched a free ride on the human powered shark mobile.
There are waves in Masachapa, too. In fact, there are waves, good ones, all around the area. I know, because I live there. I can’t tell you exactly where: that would take too long. But drop in at Los Cardones Eco-Lodge and you’ll find out more. With great waves, amazing food, and real tranquility, it’s a good place to get away from the bustle and grind of city life, get off the grid and listen to your thoughts with the soundtrack of the ocean in the background.
