by Mike Sabine
The story often told of the discovery of coffee is that of an Arabian goat herder who saw his flock dancing joyously around a bush with brightly colored berries. Upon ingesting them himself and experiencing the stimulating effects, he began to dance as well. From this fanciful beginning, coffee has grown to be the second most valuable commodity traded today, after petroleum.
With some 400 billion cups consumed every year, it is the world’s most popular beverage. The latest forecast for this years’ yield predicts exports from Nicaragua (mostly to Europe) will be in excess of 200 million dollars, making it the nation’s number one export.
The coffee plant is a perennial woody evergreen shrub belonging to the Rubiaceae family. It was thought to have originated in Africa, where much of the Robusta variety is still cultivated. The Arabica strain, which is what the premium brew is produced from, is grown in Nicaragua in a number of sub-varieties.
It spread through the Middle East and Asia, where Dutch merchants bought it in Java (hence the nickname) and introduced it to Europe. According to the book Nicaragua y su Café by Eddie Kuhl, coffee first came to the country in 1796 as a garden plant. By the 1820s it was noted as a crop, planted in the rich volcanic soil on the slopes of Mombacho Volcano and the León volcano chain.
However, it would be the influx of foreign, especially German, immigration that would make coffee a Nicaraguan industry beginning in the 1840s and 50s Many came initially because of the California Gold Rush: some newcomers had returned disappointed, while others never reached California after having been warned to turn back. The stories of wealth to be had in California were exaggerated.
Nonetheless, there was gold in the hills of Nicaragua, in the mountains to the north. Besides looking for gold, the immigrants decided to stay and plant the black gold, coffee. The nation has since made a name for itself for growing a number of premium coffee brands, some of which have won international awards.
To see for yourself firsthand, take a coffee tour. Organized excursions are available to the Island of Ometepe or the Las Flores farm on the slopes of Mombacho. For a longer excursion, head north to coffee country.
A tour called the Ruta Del Café, the Coffee Route, may still exist at certain times of the year. It included visits to coffee co-ops and processing facilities. Intur (Nicaraguan Tourism Insitute) in Matagalpa was uncertain as to whether it still continues.
Or you can tour the area on your own. Start with a visit to the Museo de Café (Coffee Museum) in Matagalpa. It features pre-Columbian stone statues and other artifacts as well as a concise history of coffee.
Another small museum is at Selva Negra, a resort hotel/coffee farm, the gem of the Matagalpa/Jinotega area run by Eddie Kuhl and family. It is a self-contained community with schools and healthcare facilities for the workers onsite.
Another must see is La Esperanza Verde Eco-lodge and organic coffee farm. This nonprofit co-op won the Smithsonian Sustainable Tourism award in 1994. Or continue through to Jinotega and Lake Apanas and visit the Kilimanjaro and Jaguar Ecolodges.
November through February is the peak of coffee season when most activity occurs. Since coffee growing is concentrated in cool, mountainous areas, it is a pleasure to visit anytime.
The altitude and volcanic soil found in these areas are some of the reasons great coffee is grown there. What other factors result in a great cup of coffee is a complicated question. There is no one secret to it, just endless attention to detail from start to finish. Of course, the variety of plant itself, the soil conditions, elevation, selective picking, and careful processing all play a role. Even how the consumer brews the product at home plays an important part. One of the most important factors is shade growing.
Made in the shade
The premium brands produced in Nicaragua are shade grown, which means that taller trees are planted or original ones are left standing amidst the coffee fields, shading the plants below. Some planted trees bear fruit, making the fields multi-productive.
Besides the benefit that shade can provide to migratory birds, shade-grown coffee is often better tasting. The shade has a similar effect on coffee as growing coffee at higher elevations. Both factors slow down the growth of the coffee, resulting in the production of more sugars and chemicals responsible for distinct coffee flavors.
Shade-grown coffee benefits songbirds that use it as a natural habitat, all the while reducing the need for fertilizers and herbicides and promoting biodiversification. Unfortunately, production on a shade-grown estate is much less that of a non-shaded farm, so cost is higher. Approximately 150 bird species live on shade-grown coffee plantations, whereas non-shade coffee farms have as few as 20 to 50 species.
The presence of our avian friends helps lower the need for agro-chemicals in two ways. First, the birds eat harmful insects, reducing the need for pesticides. Second, after these insects are digested, their remains are left behind as little calling cards, reducing the need for fertilizer. Besides learning more about coffee, bird watching or just listening to the collective songbird choir becomes part of the coffee experience.
Coffee Cuppings
With the variety of premium brands and different roasts among them available in Nicaragua, it can be difficult to pick your favorite. So there is coffee cupping, which is the java version of a wine tasting. It is a ritualized procedure with a strict protocol among experts. A cupping is how experts rate different coffees and is the process by which awards are determined, as well as what prices buyers will pay. Aficionados judge a good brew on set criteria; each coffee is rated on roast, fragrance, aroma, acidity, body, and aftertaste.
Any coffee lover can hold his or her own cupping to determine a personal favorite or just have a fun evening with fellow java junkies. Procedures vary, but for an at-home event try this method.
Purchase a variety of coffees to be sampled. Place two heaping teaspoons of fresh ground coffee in a six-ounce cup. Light roast or medium roast is preferred. First, smell the grounds and make note of the fragrance. Next, fill the cup with filtered water just below the boiling point and wait two minutes. Make note of the scent at this point.
Next, break the crust (of floating coffee) with a preheated spoon, and again observe the aroma. After most or all of the grounds have sunk to the bottom, remove any floating material, take a spoonful of liquid, and aspirate the tongue with it. This is to say, “suck it in” so it reaches the back of the throat and covers all the flavor receptor areas on the tongue. Consider acidity, body, and taste.
After the coffee cools to nearer room temperature, repeat the last procedure as different nuances become apparent at different temperatures. Rinse the mouth with water before trying each sample.
